lost in sicilia

Calabria: there and back

2011-12-07T18:54:00.001+01:00

A quick post about our quick trip to Calabria with views from the ferry boat going and returning across the Strait of Messina, that thin strip of water that separates the island from the mainland and the only way to get fom Sicily to the mainland by car. This was my first visit to Calabria and although it was quick, I really loved it. I liked the slow approach from the ferry boat, the shifting landscape of the island behind us shrinking away while the barely visible outline of the unknown ahead of us slowly came into focus. What awaited us on the mainland side was a 2 hour drive, and I finally experienced what I'd only heard about through other's stories - that is, the difficult driving conditions in this southernmost tip of Italy's boot. At first I didn't get it, but soon the deviations and one lane traffic resulted in slow going. The highway that passes through this part of Italy just isn't finished yet, and apparently has been in this perpetual state of half finished for years. So while we passed through breathtaking scenery, hugging the coast, and up on through the rugged hills of the curvy strada statale, we could see running along next to us the road work of the autostrada in mid completion - half finished bridges, tunnels just beginning to be formed, wider lanes emerging amidst the construction vehicles and dust -- and I understood what I'd only heard about and wondered what is taking so long. But after an hour or so of listening to the disheartened mutterings of the driver (that would be hubby) due to the headache of being stuck behind that one Sunday driver (and worries about arriving late to his squash tournament), we suddenly found ourselves on that part of the autostrada that is finished and settled into the easy rhythm of open roads and smooth going from there on out.

But more than a critique of the Calabrese road system, what I should talk about is the beauty of the one hill town we had time to visit, Cosenza. A tumble of ancient ruins amidst medieval churches right in the heart of the town, and radiating out from all around those mazes of narrow streets somehow leading to the castle hovering above, all calling out for discovery. We had no time for that kind of exploration, unfortunately, but did chance upon a free exhibit full of inspiring artwork by illustrators from Italy and beyond.

The other truly Calabrese experience we had in our flurry of driving were the several pit stops made in town and at various convenient points along the highway, for sampling some of the local culinary specialties. From the sweet cookies that were a bit like crunchy cinnamon rolls, to the jars of stuffed peppers and spicy spreads, to the Calabrese tarralli (and I thought that was a Pugliese speciality!), a hunk of sweet cheese, the rolls of spicy sausage, a crate of Calabrese clemintines and the requisite bunch of Calabrese red onions, our car was just bursting with flavours.

We took ourselves and our loaded car to Reggio Calabria, the capital of this region and the city that bekons to you when you see the mainland from Messina. In this city there is a wonderful archaeological museum that is currently closed, but you can still see the bronzes of Riace that are on display in a temporary space in town. We did just that and finally I had to the chance to see these wonderful works of ancient art in person, lifted out from oblivion after accidentally being discovered underwater by a scuba diver in 1972. The 4 year old is still talking about the 'bronzi' and pulls out the sweet kids book we took home with us from the museum shop regularly to see them again.

Taormina

2011-11-29T22:40:00.001+01:00

It's good to have visitors.

Earlier this month hubby had some colleagues in town that got the red carpet treatment. We joined in on the fun over the weekend and made the trip to Taormina, an outing I'll never say no to. But before stopping in Taormina we decided to wind our way up even further to the tiny town perched above it, Castelmola. Up there our heads were literally in the clouds. But not for long. The sun began to break through so that by the time we were back down in the main piazza our bodies were warmed and our eyes astonished by the spectacular sea views that now greeted us. The little town is quiet and calm compared to Taormina. Of course we stopped in for a snack at its most (in)famous bar - Bar Turrisi -- a fascinating place for its decor and gravity defying balconies. Just look at the photos on the link and you'll understand what I'm talking about. And should you visit this place, be sure to stop in at bathroom!

Taormina is full of old world charm. The Greek Theatre is one of the best locations for viewing Etna. We did a lot of climbing and pretend excavating, chewing on wild fennel and just taking it all in. The rest of the time was all about strolling along in the most leisurely fashion. On our own we are usually much quicker about these things, so it was great to have our friends there with us to slow us down for lots of looking, admiring, and photographing all that beauty. And since Taormina is also loved for its shops, I have to mention my personal favorite, the funky ceramics of Don Corleone.

Autumn

2011-11-22T06:58:00.001+01:00

We spent a day at the foothills of Etna this Sunday and finally got a sense of autumn. Living by the water the days have been so mild it reminds me of my childhood growing up in Los Angeles where the only sign of the very gentle transition from summer to fall was the pile of leaves that would appear one day underneath our large maple tree. Here in Sicily our evergreen filled backyard does not even give us that satisfaction.

Less than an hour climb up Etna with the car, though, brings you to a whole different climate. Up there the temperature dropped, jackets came out, the clouds hovered low over the hillside below and the ground was damp from on and off drizzles from the night before. When we arrived at the Barone di Villagrande winery the rain had stopped so we headed straight to the woods looking for fallen chestnuts and the pretty crocus flowers peeking out from underneath the thick accumulation of leaves. We concentrated on collecting chestnuts and poking around for different kinds of mushrooms, none of which we picked for our ignorance about mushrooms altogether. This was too bad because we were sure some of them were edible. I couldn't help but throw in some pretty oak leaves and acorns in the chestnut bag, too. My mother-in-law instead gathered bunches of crocus flowers with plans of allowing the stigmas to dry out to obtain the spice saffron. This was new information to me and she promised a taste of risotto alla Milanese produced with her own saffron one day in the future. Although the nearby town of Zafferana Etnea is most famous for its production of honey, the name is said to derive also from the word for yellow in Arabic (zaufanah), which refers to the large quantities of broom and saffron in the territory.

A long meal followed in the winery's pretty restaurant, accompanied by tastings of their white and red wines. The best course by far was the dessert due to the mont blanc made from their own chestnuts and the mostarda made from their own freshly pressed grapes - delicious!

Today it is raining again, and hard, so I cannot pretend to be fooled about what season it is. Snacking on roasted chesnuts and decorating our windows with dried leaves has been helping too!

Fiesole and some ramblings

2011-11-20T22:08:00.001+01:00

Since the beginning of September I have embarked on a new adventure of a personal sort - teaching a course to American university students studying abroad for a semester in Florence. I can't believe I am doing this, but once a week I really do hop on a plane and commute to Florence in order to meet with 7 young women who are all keen on learning about ancient Etruscan pottery, how it can be studied, conserved and restored. It has been a huge challenge for me, but a great one too. Planning and prepping for and lecturing and teaching and supervising hands on activity in a flurry of 2 and a half hours, trying to get the kids inspired and enthusiastic without overloading them, staying alert, engaged, open and aware. Let me tell you all of these things that take place in the course of the week and are concentrated during these weekly meetings have been super stimulating to my underworked brain. I am doing what I love to do and sharing it with some interesting young people who seem sincerely thrilled to have this chance to restore ancient pots, and I'm thrilled to be there with them.

In between all the anxiety that comes with new responsibilities, the exhaustion that comes with long days and lots of travel, and the satisfaction of a seemingly successful lesson, there are some special moments not related to working that also come with this weekly commute. First of all I get to spend one night a week in the beautiful town of Fiesole, where some very dear American friends now live. In Fiesole the air is different, pristine as it can only be in Tuscany. Up there on a hill overlooking the city of Florence below, the view is truly inspiring. The house of my friends is instead located behind the town, reachable from a winding narrow road that curls through olive groves and tall oak trees that make the road feel like a tunnel. The house is a hidden jewel, a perfect old country house, quiet and cozy, the kind of place you dream about living in when you think of Italy. In the evenings I am fed warm, delicious food and entertained by the stories of the week and hugs from their snugly little boy. When the yawns take over my being I crawl into a comfy bed of my own and sleep oh so very soundly - there is no little boy of my own calling out for me to help him find his way to the bathroom which is what happens the other 6 nights of the week when I am in my own bed! In the morning I make my way back into the city of Florence, eat a Florentine breakfast (a brioche at the bar), and get ready for the class.

Once the hard work is over I am rewarded by the final phase of enjoyment of these weekly visits, a good 3-4 hours of free time all to myself before I have to start heading back to the airport. I have truly grown to love this city in my weekly wanderings around town. It is so luxurious to be able to visit museums, shops and eateries on my own and to my hearts desire. Despite the many tourists, the place feels very alive and full of beauty and quality things that make me want to consume beyond my means. With so many expats living in Florence it has much more of an international flair than my Sicilian world. I ooh and awe over the authentic NY bagels I munch on, the homemade Chinese dumplings, the vintage shops, the unique handcrafted cloths and jewelry, Renaissance paintings, buses that work, artist's studios and so much more. By the end of it all my feet ache and my head is dizzy with the idea of a bus, and a train and an airplane and then a car and then finally home sweet home to the place where I really do belong. The time away is special because of the mix of work and friends and discovery, but still does not compare to the happiness I feel when I walk through the door I call home. As usual, nothing like spending time away to make you appreciate all that you have. A few more weeks of this adventure left and I will do my best to savor all that I enjoy about it.

La Vecchia Dogana

2011-11-19T21:30:00.000+01:00

A new place to visit in Catania is La Vecchia Dogana. The building is that of Catania's old customs house located in the port and now renovated and filled with shops and restaurants. The theme here is definitely all things Sicilian: food, wines, books, ceramics, and other locally produced temptations. In fact, it calls itself the 'tasting showroom of Catania'. The space is pretty, a kind of an indoor food court in a big, airy, historic building that has been nicely renovated with sky lights, escalators and even a pair of gigantic Sicilian puppet sculptures hanging from the ceiling. These refer to the new Sicilian puppet museum that also has a home in the old customs house and was not yet open as of a few weeks ago. I have also read that there is a cinema in the building but did not see it during our recent visit.

While the place may intend to be a kind of welcome to Sicily center for the ship loads of tourist that spend a few hours docked in Catania as a day stop on their Mediterranean cruise, I am sure the locals will be pleased by this new destination, too. It is easily reachable from the center and gives reason to pass under the old bridge that separates the center from the port.

Even though the focus is on everything Sicilan, there are a few non-Sicilian eating choices, too. Most enticing (to me) are the burger joint, also yet to open as of a few weeks ago and the name of which escapes me at the moment, and Dr. Juice, a Maltese-based juice bar that serves not only smoothies and freshly squeezed juices but also American style soups and sandwiches, including bagels and wraps (!!!). On our first visit we thoroughly enjoyed a couple of smoothies and spicy tuna wraps for lunch. By chance the owner of the juice bar was there training his new employees and getting the place set up for its grand opening. A nice young chap who is in the process of expanding his operation from the island of Malta onto the island of Sicily. The Vecchia Dogana is his second location in Catania and I wish him the best of luck. I'll definitely be back when the urge for something quick and decidedly non-Italian strikes again.

Baia del Riccio

2011-10-26T09:35:00.001+02:00

Not only am I lucky to have lovely friends, I am lucky to have lovely friends that generously share their beautiful summer homes. This one is located half way between Catania and Siracusa along the beautiful Baia del Riccio (Sea Urchin Bay). The house is on the edge of a cliff. And yes, seeing my little one up against the bars like that gives me vertigo and makes my heart skip a beat, but I like the drama of the little guy against all that blue. Looking straight down from that position is the view you see on top, while turning your head towards Catania will give you the view on the bottom. On a clear day Etna is spectacular and I heard they had great views of the eruptions at night, too. The days we spent here between the terrace with a view and down in the water below will remain with me for a long time for the simple joys of friendship and summer fun.

San Lorenzo

2011-10-21T12:19:00.000+02:00

Just look at all that blue!

Just 1 1/2 hours from the black rocky shores where I live near Catania are these white sandy beaches and dazzling turquoise waters. One of the true highlights of August were the days we spent visiting a friend at this delightful place known as San Lorenzo. For anyone familiar with the Vendicari nature reserve, the waters and beaches are very familiar to that idyllic spot, only here the nature is not protected and so you have vacation rentals and beach lidos galore. However, the convenience of all that is not such a bad thing, especially with children, and you still have the natural beauty of perfect sand and water to enjoy.

Our days here at San Lorenzo were really blissful. The view from the little rental house, right on the beach, was exactly what you see pictured. The long stretch of sand was interrupted near the house with some rocky coves. Each morning we would seek out our little cove, put up an umbrella and splash, swim, climb, jump and all those lovely things that warm blue water makes you want to do. To the right and left, long sandy shores were crammed full of people and lounge chairs and umbrellas, but for some reason these small rocky patches were enough to deter 99% of the beach goers to our great delight.

San Lorenzo may just be the perfect beach. There are so many I haven't seen along this island's coast so I am sure my proclamation can be contested, but there is no doubt that this one is a true summer paradise.

It is a bit hard to see in the photo above, but I was amazed by the floating bicycles that rode past us one afternoon. The bikes are somehow attached to the yellow rafts that are powered by pedaling --
a whole new way to interact with the water that might be fun to try.

Isola Bella

2011-10-19T23:06:00.010+02:00

I am still feeling compelled to get all my summer tidbits recorded so I can hurry up and embrace the fall (which I am doing in real life!).

This summer I did not actually go for a swim in the crystal clear paradise of Isola Bella. But, I did get to gaze at its splendor from a terrace with the most perfect view of the cove. I couldn't tear my eyes away. Nor could I stop gawking at the villa next door, just gorgeous don't you think? The owners of the apartment we visited rent their vacation home out for most of the summer. Apparently a group of young Scandinavians who rented the place for a week managed to hop the fence and go for a midnight dip in the neighbor's pool. The neighbors didn't even raise a fuss - they just thought it was their own kids splashing around for some late night fun! Now that's a lesson in neighborly love we can all be inspired by!

Savoca

2011-10-16T06:37:00.006+02:00

I still need to catch up on our many adventures from the summer, and have been unable to do so because of the business of new work. But, a bit of calm is in the air the next few weeks and so I will try to do a short series of posts to record our end of the summer travels before they are completely out of my mind.

One of our spontaneous adventures was the detour we made on the way to the beach to the inland town of Savoca. What attracted us was the town's membership in the I Borghi Piu' Belli d' Italia (the most beautiful towns of Italy) guide. On first impression though, some modern constructions have altered the town's historic character a bit so that it does not seem to compare to the other 'borghi piu' belli d'Italia' we have visited in Sicily. However, what makes the place unique is the fact that some scenes of the movie, The Godfather, were filmed here at a little locale called Bar Vitelli. The bar still exists and is fully functioning. Inside it feels as if nothing has changed (and probably nothing has) since the 1970s when Hollywood took over the sleepy town for a short while. The bar's original owner had the foresight to preserve the place as a kind of living film set. From the cash register, to the selection of old magazines and aperitif bottles lining the mirrored walls, the bar is a testimony to Sicily as it was a few decades back (at least that's what my Sicilian husband said as memories flooded back to him from his own childhood during the 1970s stepping foot into this bar). You can order a coffee made with an ancient espresso maker and sit in the shaded outdoor terrace and try to recapture the sense of old time Sicily. Inside, another room is dedicated to the memory of The Godfather, through newspaper clippings and photographs from the filming as it took place in Savoca. We lingered long enough to marvel at this little piece of time standing standing still and cool down from the summer heat before a busload of thirsty tourists took over the space.

Outside, we wandered through the little town. Despite those modern constructions, there was plenty of small town charm to make the stroll worthwhile. We visited a small catacomb, gazed at the view, picked blackberries, admired some architecture, and waved at the ladies staying cool in the shade of their front porches.

Sometimes its good to get lost

2011-09-01T16:30:00.002+02:00

We went to say hello to friends working in Aidone a few weeks ago and also to see the new wing of the Museo Archeologico di Aidone that was built this year to accommodate the recently repatriated 'Dea di Mogantina' statue as well as a beautiful collection of silver objects, both which had been illegally excavated from Morgantina years ago and sold on the art market. Knowing that the 'Dea' had previously been residing in my hometown (Los Angeles chez the J. Paul Getty Museum) and that the silver was coming from my last place of employment in the U.S. (the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NYC) and was actually de-installed while I was still there, made the visit a bit strange, something like reconnecting with lost relatives.

But what a change from last summer! The publicity the museum has received has obviously increased the number of visitors. The formerly sleepy, empty building was bustling with activity, the formerly bored to death guards were alert and working, the formerly non-existent parking problem now exists (lots of visitors=lots of cars), and the new wing appears well constructed and beautifully designed. Which brings me to my next point - with funding and vision, big projects CAN come to fruition in Sicily following high standards and in a timely fashion (I believe the new wing was completed in under a year).

After the museum visit we had a memorable lunch at the nearby Vechia Aidone restaurant, which I would highly recommend for the creative menu which features fresh, local ingredients. We ate way more than was necessary but I savored every bite of the tortellini stuffed with eggplants and salty ricotta cheese, a wonderful twist on the traditional Catanese dish, pasta alla Norma.

But the best surprise of all was the wrong turn we made (I take complete blame!) at the bottom of the hill on our return back home. We somehow found ourselves on a narrow dirt road and the four year old caught site of some black berry bushes. We parked and took a look around - the entire road was engulfed by gigantic blackberry bushes, literally dripping with fruit. We picked and picked and managed to gather enough berries for a blackberry jam making party, but I'll leave that tale for another day.

summer snapshots

2011-08-24T21:13:00.004+02:00

Summer in Sicily is....

prickly pears by the sea

father son fishing

boats

nesting birds

Glass bottom boat

2011-08-06T07:06:00.008+02:00

We finally took the glass bottom boat tour from Acitrezza, basically a 45 minute spin around the protected marine area of Isola Lachea. The kids loved it even though the visibility wasn't great that day due to some wind and waves. Through the windows we saw jellyfish, sea urchins and lots of little fish. Up above we got great views of the Isola Lachea and friendly fishermen. We learned some interesting facts about the island's geological formation and the sea creatures from the marine biologist on board. Apparently there is a little museum on the island that can be visited as well. Reservations are needed as this is a popular activity in the summer.

Back tracking, in Turkey

2011-07-30T11:56:00.013+02:00

We spent the month of June in southeastern Turkey working on the excavation again. As always, the work is exciting and the adventures are plentiful. The afternoon we spent at the tiny village where many of the workmen who are hired to help excavate the site are from captures the simple joys of our time spent in Turkey:

The village is perched above a dramatic section of the Tigris river and offers stunning views.

After a warm welcome, the archaeologists were invited to sip tea with the village men.

We nibbled on sweet apricots picked off a nearby shady tree.

The village children sat and watched the scene from a distance.

Meanwhile, my son refused to stay still, excited by the chance to practice his newly acquired skill of chasing down, capturing, and coddling baby chicks (and turkeys) to the dismay of the mother hens, and the laughter of the village ladies.

The ladies of the village weren't quite invisible.

They would peer out the windows of the two story concrete house, or stay busy at their work around the cozier mud brick houses.

One striking woman was squatting as she checked on the sheep's milk cheese she was making, which simmered in a large metal pot over an open fire.

We stayed until the sun started to set.

Heartfelt farewells were exchanged as the time came to head to our own village- the archaeologists and workmen had become good friends over the years.

It was dinner time but we had a forty minute drive ahead us.

We were given loaves of homemade bread to keep our stomachs from growling on the dusty drive home.

Bread in mouth, the bumpy dirt road lulled my boy to sleep, stretched out long on the back seat of the minivan.

He fought hard to keep his eyes open so he could take in the endless fields of wheat, corn and cotton that we drove past. He never tires of talking about what he sees out the window, or looking for tractors and the big wheat harvesters he loves so much.

Back tracking, in Rome

2011-07-22T10:02:00.012+02:00

I have been away in Turkey again, which I hope explains my long absence. But here I am back in Sicily with a chance to sit down and back track through some summer photos. Being home again feels great - swimming, sun and of course granitas! But several months ago before going to Turkey we spent a few days in Rome, where the cool beverage of choice is an icy grattachecca. We were lucky because it had just gotten warm enough to crave the sweet and sour combination of a limon-cocco shaved ice, one our favorite Roman treats. We made the walk to the father-son grattachecca stand in our old neighborhood. The father's job is to shave the solid block of ice by hand to create a cupfull of the crunchy coldness. The son then gets to work on flavoring the ice with plenty of sugary syrup, the juice of several freshly squeezed lemons, and a handful of fresh chunks of coconut meat. This is more of an edible beverage than a drinkable one (both spoon and straw are needed), and it really cools you down during those hot Roman summers. If you are not a lemon-coco fan (you have to try it at least once, really!) there are other combos with fresh fruit bits or the full range of flavoured syrups to pick from. Okay, now I'm craving something cold, maybe its time for a granita!

Some personal history

2011-04-28T18:46:00.010+02:00

I created this blog about 6 months after I moved to Sicily. In fact, this spring I celebrated my 3rd anniversary as a 'Sicilian'. I can hardly believe that 3 years have passed. But I can see how raising a little boy is also a marker of time--this little boy of mine is almost 4, not so little anymore! Thinking back to 'where my little baby has gone' brings me to the moment I am reflecting on right now, the whole purpose for sitting down to write this post. I am thinking about the special moment in which I met my very first friend here in Sicily, a friend all my own who I fortuitously encountered that first Sicilian September right here in Aci Castello's piazza.

It was our little boys of course who attracted us to each other right away and got us sharing bits and pieces of information about ourselves. I knew I liked this woman right away! Her open smile, the love and warmth that poured out of her so naturally as she interacted with her son. Her humorous and attentive husband. Turns out she was also fluent in English, had spent most of her childhood in Germany, had spent a period as an adult in the US, and studied languages in university. Hallelujah! We agreed to stay in touch and meet each other for play dates in the park!

I remember the morning of our first encounter well because it was also my 38th birthday. The birthday was sweet and happy because I spent it with my husband and 16th month old son. That evening I was treated to a luxurious dinner prepared by my wonderful husband. And to add to the familial happiness I had a new friend who I will always remember as the surprise birthday present of the year. And although I was still certainly 'lost' in many regards that day, that first friendship of mine was a true turning point of my Sicilian life. Throughout that year I was to meet other lovely people and slowly my life, my community, my sense of belonging took root so that today, almost 3 years later, I can exclaim out loud to you all I AM NO LONGER LOST! And I know I owe much of that to this special friendship and the others that would follow.

Today I had to hug my dear first friend goodbye as she is leaving Sicily. It is a teary and emotional goodbye. I know we will stay in touch and see each other again in different places, having new and equally joyful adventures together, but I will so miss just knowing that beautiful friend of mine is nearby. My special first friend is hard to let go of! She, her sweet little boy (who is not so little anymore either!), that attentive humorous husband of hers, they are all very dear to me! The last of my girls' night out pals is moving away and I am terribly crushed, but I also know the sense of belonging I feel inside of me right now is in part because of these very friendships which have given me the strength to call this place home.

So, I raise my imaginary glass and make a toast to friendship, to those who have moved away and will be a part of my ever-growing long-distance tribe, and those that are still here, I treasure the fact that you are still here and I must warn you I will be holding onto you more tightly than ever!

an LA visit

2011-04-21T09:17:00.007+02:00

I've been in LA visiting my family. The highlight was celebrating my mom's 70th birthday in tiny little Avalon on Catalina Island. I also gave myself permission to take off solo for a weekend to visit two of my closest friends in northern California. Once all the traveling was over I had a week to soak up the local flavor at some of my favorite spots: the San Gabriel Mission, The Natural History Museum, The Armory Center for the Arts, and Kidspace Museum. There was also time for my nephew's little league games, plenty of Mexican and Asian food, and a decadent afternoon spent in full pamper mode at the Olympic Day Spa in Koreatown (this was INCREDIBLE!). I'll leave it at that for now and hoping that you all are having an enjoyable spring wherever you might be!

from top to bottom: mission bells, catalina tiles, Avalon, California cacti (this could be Sicily!), poppies, butterfly pavilion at the Natural History Museum

not the prettiest catch...

2011-03-31T11:46:00.007+02:00

The good old sea cucumber. Looking at this photo it is no wonder Italians have nicknamed these creatures 'sea turds'. On our hunt for signs of sea life this weekend we didn't find much--not a crab, not a fish, but plenty of these not so appealing creatures. As soon as you poke at one with a net it will secrete a milky substance that is both sticky and a mild irritant to the skin (if you look closely at the photo you can see the stuff). For this reason we usually avoid them. But, these guys are slow and therefore an easy catch and the little boy was thrilled about picking one up with his net all on his own. So, we spent spent a little time celebrating the catch before placing him back in the water and only then could we see how quickly sea cucumbers will move if pushed to find a new hiding spot. I have feeling our poor sea cucumbers will be seeing a lot of my son's net this summer as he practices his fishing skills!

A final word on sea cucumbers: apparently they live in most sea waters and move across sea bottoms in large herds. I don't know about you but I find the thought of thousands of these guys moving as a single mass a bit frightening!

life goes on

2011-03-17T21:43:00.010+01:00

Sad and frightening things are happening in the world. But here the sun creates its Sicilian magic, the sea is calm, nothing is out of place, life goes on as always. There are even holidays. Today we celebrate the birth of Italy as a nation, 150 years ago to be exact. Not much patriotism going on around here, but it is hard to ignore the sudden appearance of the green, white and red flags hanging in front of houses and being waved around the piazza by children. And of course our little boy wanted to join in the flag waving. Alas, all pre-fab flags were sold out. We resorted to quickly (can't you tell?) stitching a homemade Italian flag from the fabric scraps we dug up. We also read up on the symbolism of the flag's colors (not even the Italian hubby could tell me the answer without the help of wikipedia). Turns out green is the color of hope, while white and red represent the colors common to many Italian cities pre-unification. While the word hope trigged a moment of thoughtful silence for the adults, the little boy, blissfully ignorant of the world's sad events, continued to happily wave his flag and promptly requested a Chinese one and an American one. I think I'll make a Japanese one, too. If he still has flag fever tomorrow morning I'll definitely be switching from the sloppy sewing to the fabric pens.

-----------------------

So much red and green to be found in our backyard garden this afternoon, couldn't help but snap a few patriotic nature shots.

Beautiful Ortigia

2011-03-07T21:44:00.010+01:00

As we sped towards Siracusa on Saturday, the gray clouds that hovered over Catania were gradually replaced by gorgeous sunshine and strong winds. The water around the little island of Ortigia was noisy with crashing waves that seemed much more like ocean than sea. But once away from the shore and protected by the tight network of the island's narrow streets there was no wind at all. A great day for wandering around this beautiful town.

The tips of the papyrus plants danced in the wind.

Splashes of color dangling from succulent-filled balconies.

The duomo's ancient foundation: layers of old, newer and newest.

Must come back soon!

Coming soon to Catania...

2011-02-28T15:19:00.006+01:00

When I picked up this flier from the mail the other day I was so excited it was pathetic. But I just can't help myself. I felt the same way when H&M opened last year. These international chains are like comfort food to the native born consumer that I am. You enter in one and you could be anywhere in the world. Focusing on whatever bargin there is to be hunted for, it is easy to forget that your home is now a Mediterranean island. And while IKEA is full of many things I have no use for, it is also full of lots of potentially useful things that I can't seem to easily find here. Like bright, colorful fabrics. All those containers for organizing whatever piles of papers and other junk that accumulate in makeshift spots all over the house. I don't think I'll be the very first in line at the new IKEA's grand opening on March 9th, but I bet I won't be able to hold out for very long. Pathetic!

In the garden

2011-02-27T12:07:00.003+01:00

Here's what we've been eating A LOT of lately....

The freshness of veggies from your own garden can't been beat, it's just hard to consume so much of the same vegetable all at once. We've been giving some away, but also trying to find creative ways to eat cauliflower. We've been eating it raw, steamed, sauteed, in soup, with and without pasta, in a souffle, and I'm ready to try a curried version as we are running out of variations (any one have any good recipe suggestions?).

And here are my constant companions during the outdoor forays into our garden on sunny days.

We've recently planted some berry bushes (raspberry, blueberry, and black berry). Our strawberry patch does very well, but not sure if these varieties will actually be able to thrive and produce fruit in this climate. But who can resist the thought of picking fresh berries from their own backyard, so thought it would be fun to try! Also can't wait to see if the wisteria we planted last year will blossom this year! Yes, I am itching for spring!

Sicilian inspiration

2011-02-24T20:59:00.008+01:00

Thanks to my 3 year old's active imagination, we have become a Sicilian puppet obsessed household: playing with miniature puppets, role playing knights and kings and princesses and dragons and all that, seeing puppet shows, reading about puppet shows, watching u-tube videos of puppet shows, and now, since I have not been able to find any children's books on the subject, I have gotten it into my head to create one myself. Nothing elaborate, just a simple story about the most well-known characters of the Sicilian puppet world: Orlando (Roland in English) and Rinaldo. According to legend, the two were cousins, nephews of Charlemagne and the strongest knights of Charlemagne's army. This illustration of Orlando will probably be a little guide to his most important features: always dressed in red silks, a large black mustache, a dove on top of his helmet, a famous sword that is said to have originally belonged to Hector of Troy. Fortunately with all the pupi we have in the house it is easy to find models to sketch from!

birds?!?!

2011-02-18T18:46:00.002+01:00

I had no idea it was such an important week for birds until I read Lucia's great post. It reminded me of the few memorable bird-related photos I have taken in the last several years (just a handful, really). By no means am I an expert and I do not have a zoom lens for my camera so in most cases the birds appear disappointingly distant. But, those rare moments where I have been at the right place just at the right time to be able to capture some memory of a few special bird sightings is exciting all the same. So, here is my very small tribute to birds. And thanks, Lucia, for inspiring me to dig up these old photos!

I saw this large bird (I think it is a hawk, correct me if I am wrong anyone) sitting on the post of a house as we were driving past. I made my husband stop and back up so I could take this picture -- it was such a surprise to see it there and I couldn't believe I was able to pick it out of the scenery from a moving car. This was taken somewhere on the road home to Aci Castello after a visit to I Portali shopping center in San Giovanni la Punta.

What did my little boy spy peering through the bars of this drain in Aci Reale's Belvedere Park?

This hidden bird's nest!

Moving on to Turkey, here, perched on the left side of the telephone pole you will see an adorable little owl. He could sit there for hours. At night his screeches would wake me up. At dusk and dawn he could be seen hopping around in the fields hunting.

I have no idea what this colorful bird is called. These birds would usually be seen when driving through the Turkish countryside at dawn or dusk. They would be sitting on the roads in groups and would scatter away as soon as the roar of the car approached. Their green-blue feathers always caught my eye and I would strain to catch a fleeting glimpse of them on these long drives. So you can imagine my surprise when we had a chance to see one of these birds up close in our village's muddy watering hole. The poor thing was hurt and after venturing up close for a good photo we left it alone as it was obviously frightened. I hope it managed to recover and return to its feathered flock.

To the snow

2011-02-14T15:29:00.004+01:00

Our 'white week' in the snow was the warmest in years according to the locals. Nothing but blue skies and sun. A gentle way to ease back into one of my favorite pastimes of my younger years. I don't mean sound old but this was my first time back on skis in about 20 years. 'Just like riding a bike' I was told countless times, and to my great surprise it really was. After a one-hour lesson and several hours of getting the feel for the sport, it was like I had never stopped. I could never have anticipated that I would enjoy the movement, the speed, the wind in-face and snow spraying and all that, but I really loved it. And that was just a bonus since the real reason for the trip was for the little boy to get his fill on winter wonderland, something he has been asking about for some time ('I want the snow to fall on my head' is one recent quote). With those sunny skies, no snow landed on our heads, but there is nothing cuter than seeing a 3 year old wearing little tiny skis, bundled up in those snow clothes, and happily snow plowing between the legs of the ski instructor along with the other midget skiers. The ski resort was small, but given the beauty of the Alps, the easy access to the slopes, and the excellent ski school, we didn't mind. We hardly left Montecampione, but on our last day visited the UNESCO world heritage site of Valcamonica for a walk through the woods to experience the prehistoric rock incisions the area is famous for. We were completely blown away by the beauty of these timeless images of deer, people, houses, carts and other more mysterious renderings. If only we had more time for exploring the area.

my rome

2011-01-31T12:37:00.007+01:00

Just back from a long weekend in Rome for a little bit of work but mostly just hanging out in a city we used to call home. For me Rome is among the cities I have lived in that still feel like home and for hubby, who lived there for nearly 20 years, even more so as evident by the city map imprinted on his brain (better than a GPS navigator, really!). Once work was over it was great to just walk around the city streets, take advantage of all that this metropolitan, multicultural version of Italy has to offer. We ate Korean, Japanese, British and thin Roman pizza. We entertained the boy at Rome's fantastic children's museum. We saw numerous friends. We relaxed and slept at Nonna's house. We walked through the center of Rome and gawked at the culinary, historic and artistic surprises that can be discovered at just about every turn of the head. And of course we walked through our own old neighborhood, San Giovanni, a few pictures of which I wanted to share on this post. From top to bottom: a section of the fragmented Roman acqueduct which runs through our neighborhood and the Egyptian obelisk just visible in the background; some ladies practicing for the Chinese new year's celebration; my boys walking through Piazza Vittorio.

Morning Colors

2011-01-27T10:02:00.005+01:00

I never enjoy early morning wakeups that are not of my own choosing. But with a 3 year old screaming "get up" at the top of his lungs, hiding under the covers doesn't really help. A few minutes of that and no hope of my son suddenly deciding to snuggle in bed with me, I do mange to get my groggy self up, feet dragging up the stairs, water (for my tea) and milk (for my son) warming on the stove, and then the opening of the shutters for a first glimpse outside to see what the day has in store for us. Lately it has been lots of clear, gorgeous skies and spectacular sunrises, and these colorful horizons shake me from my grogginess instantly. A few minutes of ooing and aweing over the glowing rising sun with my little early riser and we are guaranteed a happy morning together. So (dare I say it?) thank you little boy for shaking my lazy bum out of bed! My sleeping in late self is in disbelief at such a thought: rule #1 is we do not in any way want to reinforce the waking up early behavior my son is so fond of these days!

More on pupi

2011-01-23T20:44:00.008+01:00

These unusual faces are the heads of Sicilian pupi (puppets) that can be seen at the Museo Opera dei Pupi in Acireale. Carved and painted with such precision, these characters can be beautiful, frightening and downright bizarre. The heads of the pupi were designed to be interchangeable (same body could be paired with different heads depending on the performance), and those seen here are exhibited without bodies. Even some special effects were involved: the one in the photo in the middle (that of a giant) was designed to split open when struck in battle by the sword of a paladino - the heros of these spectacles.

The museum features the collection of pupi that was made and used by the Pennisi-Macri' theater founded at the end of the 19th century, and I think the quality of painting and carving is among the finest I have seen (look at the beard on that fellow!). Thanks to my 3 year old pupi-obsessed son, I am starting to learn quite a bit about the world of Sicilian pupi. Even my American family has had to learn that in my son's world 'pupi' does not mean 'poopy', but we all still laugh quite a bit over that one!

Details from Tindari

2011-01-05T12:49:00.011+01:00

From our medieval perch of Montalbano Elicona, we took the slowly meandering road down to Tindari to get a closer look at the Tyrrenhian Sea and explore the anicent site. Down here the weather was much milder and the vegetation more abundant. Of course the first thing that strikes you is the view, always the view!

Laghetti di Marinello

View of the nature reserve just below Tindari

Then the peaceful walk out of the hubbub around the church in Tindari that is home to the famous Madonna Nera. A row of modern houses line the narrow street that leads to the archaeological site. The people who live there are really residents of the ancient city--the site is their backyard and across the street are rows of rectangular stone blocks that once formed the city's exterior walls.

Once inside the site, we discovered the serene world of ancient Tindari. With few visitors, we had the architectural remains, mosaic floors, thermal baths, fields of clovers, a small museum, an informative and friendly guard, and even a family of playful dogs all to ourselves. We loved it!

a fresh start - happy 2011

2011-01-03T13:58:00.011+01:00

New Years Eve always gives me a travel itch -- a desire to be out exploring and discovering something new. As the midnight hour rings, the beginning of the new year sneaks into being almost unnoticed, overshadowed by the wondrous feeling of being some place new. Detached from normal routines there is no need to focus on the obligatory celebration -- just being out there in the world is celebration enough! And it is with this traveler's mindset that I somehow find it easier to clear my head, reflect on what's passed, and set intentions for new beginnings from a simple place of discovery.

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Welcoming a new year from a Medieval borgo in the Nebrodi Mountains: Montalbano Elicona. Some details of our weekend:

A little stone house of our own, rustic and cozy in its medieval dimensions and lack of large windows.

The high altitude meant real winter temperatures and lots of bundling up to explore all there is to see. Like the morning we spent walking through the village's narrow lanes lined by more of those little stone houses, no two alike--some crumbling, some restored--, peaking in the child height windows, peering over terracotta tiled roofs, climbing steep staircases that eventually lead us to the castle door, taking in the breathtaking panoramas visible from all angles.

From up here the panorama is spectacular and includes not only verdant valleys and rocky peaks, but also the Tyrrhenian Sea and the protruding humps of the Aeolian Islands, for these mountains are just kilometers away from Sicily's northern coast.

For these reasons and more, Montalbano Elicona is on the list of Italy's 100 most beautiful villages.

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Back home the new year has silently slipped into being, while our family is rejuvinated from a weekend full of new discoveries and much time spent outdoors in the natural environment. We are revved up for a year full of love and joy whether it be at home, with friends and family, or on some travel adventure. We see a young three year old enthusiastically embracing all the new experiences and thriving from the intensity that comes with them--laughing and being together, being out in the world, being creative and free-spirited. Pure simple joy. This is my intention for the new year! HAPPY 2011 everyone!

Alcantara

2010-12-30T11:47:00.006+01:00

The Alcantara River is another stunning natural wonder just a short drive from where we live. From the Calatabiano Castle we decided to follow the small winding road that meanders through the Alcantara Valley and is part of a regional park (Parco Fluviale Dell'Alcantara). The further inland you get, the more the river becomes a gorge, and at one point we were able to stop and peer over a little bridge and view the amazing basalt rock formations created through erosion by the flowing river. Even further inland you can enter the deepest part of the gorge, but we'll save that for another day.

Calatabiano's Castle

2010-12-27T11:40:00.001+01:00

Nothing like a Sicilian zampognari playing holiday tunes from an Arab-Norman castle with a view to cure our post-holiday food coma yesterday. While the Sicilian bagpipes were the real excuse to visit this spot, turns out Calatabiano's castle is a great place to experience even without the added folklore of zampognari.

First of all, to reach the castle you can opt to take a special 'ascensore', which I found to be more of a tram than an elevator as the person manning the ticket booth/gift shop called it. Both the ascensore and castle are visible from the A18 Autostrada, and until yesterday I always wondered what that strange looking contraption going up the side of the mountain was. Certainly makes the ascent a dramatic experience and may have been the best moment of the day for the 3 year old.

Once you reach the castle, you will surely be impressed by the lovely views from the top: all that coastline, the tantalizingly nearby peaks of Taormina and Castelmola, bright green terraced hillsides, and even the rushing speck of the Alcantra River below.

Turns out the the ascensore, along with the excellent walking paths and numerous interesting outdoor/indoor spaces you will find in the castle, are all the result of a restoration project that was completed about a year and half ago. The castle is not that large, but there is plenty to explore including some excavated finds, the remains of a tower, lots of castle windows, each framing its own unique view of the surrounding landscape, as well as a glass-enclosed cafe (with great unobstructed views) and several conference rooms. In fact, reading the castle's website it is clear that one of the goals of the restoration was to make it into a vibrant cultural center. Free tours are offered every Sunday and there are other events like the bagpipes for the holiday season, such as classical music concerts, an evening lecture series on astronomy, and even a new year's eve gala dinner. I don't mean to go on and on about this little castle, it's just that only rarely are cultural heritage destinations so appealing on this island of Sicily. While I love castles even when they are just isolated empty shells perched on craggy hilltops, someone envisioned that this particular one could be so much more, and somehow that vision has become reality for the town of Calatabiano.

P.S. others have been writing about zampognari too, read Jann's post here.

Sunrise

2010-12-24T17:49:00.003+01:00

Clouds, patch of blue sky and first rays of morning sunlight over the Ionian Sea.

Happy Holidays!

Date Night

2010-12-18T21:20:00.003+01:00

On my recent flight back to Italy from the US, I got some good laughs watching Date Night starring Tina Fey and Steve Carell. I nearly woke up my sleeping son from all my silent jiggling and even let a few bursts of out loud laughter slip out. It was just the perfect blend of funny and not too heavy to help get me through the wee hours of the flight, which is probably why I liked it so much.

Our recent date night was of course nothing like the movie, but as we drove into 'the city' a few nights ago (that would be Catania) I couldn't help but get flashbacks of the movie, envisioning the suburban New Jersey couple driving into 'THE CITY' (that would be NYC), the seemingly innocent beginning to the night that would change their lives forever. Back in the real world of Catania, our evening was of course absolutely, perfectly, happily uneventful, just as expected. We simply rejoiced in the normalcy of a night out after dark as two adults, briskly walking through the maze of streets, arm in arm, bundled up in our winter coats, warming up while browsing in a random bookstore, and then back out to wander some more until finally deciding on our restaurant of choice.

All that is just a long segue into Razmataz, perfect in its cozy hippness for a relaxing meal on a cold wintry night. Most importantly it serves up some tasty and original food. The pizza was Roman thin and I opted for the tuma cheese /homemade eggplant tapanade smeared one and enjoyed every mouthwatering bite. Hubby prefers a thicker crust but that didn't stop him from gobbling down his tuma cheese/olive/anchoive/green onion smothered version. And there is a long list of more traditional pizzas too, not to mention all the non-pizza choices which may tempt us back for another one of our kind of date nights: simple. adult. fun.

Home Sweet Sicily

2010-12-15T23:08:00.006+01:00

Although I always feel a little wistful after a trip home to the U.S., the glorious days that greeted us here back in Sicily have made the transition into so-called normal life a little less bittersweet. No matter my degree of homesickness, I find it hard to be anything other than positive, upbeat and smiley when basking in sunshine and surrounded by an expanse of shining deep blue sea. Wouldn't you agree?

Add a bunch of colorful wooden fishing boats to the picture...

...and a kilo of the tiny edible clams known as telline that were sauteed and served up as part of Sunday lunch,

and the 'I must admit there are some advantages to living in Sicily' side of me starts rearing its stubborn head up once again.

A few reasons why I love LA

2010-12-08T22:31:00.010+01:00

Just back from another wonderful trip visiting my family in Los Angeles. It was all about spending quality time with family and friends, eating favorite ethnic foods, and of course shopping American style. But you can only shop and eat and just hang out so much! To keep things interesting were the many local excursions revisiting some of my favorite old haunts and discovering some new ones, too. The LA area is a huge metropolis and if you are willing to drive and not be intimidated by a little traffic (okay, a lot of traffic), the choices are endless and much fun is to be had....

What kid doesn't love climbing in and out of old trains?

Griffith Park's Travel Town Museum

'old school' fun

The Nutcraker at the Bob Baker Marionette Theater in Downtown LA

The Happiest Place on Earth: Disneyland

Some things taste better in the U.S.A. like these freshly picked berries

we sampled at our local farmer's market

Vista Hermosa Park: downtown LA's newest green space

The spectacular coastal views from the Getty Center

make it hard not to love this city

A special week and Licata

2010-10-30T15:56:00.013+02:00

View of Licata from Castel San'Angelo

I am spiraling down from a fantastic week spent with one of my dearest friends in the whole world. Although a mother of three, she was able to spread her wings free and fly solo for an entire week of Sicilian fun. In return for this amazing feat I tried my best to immerse myself in celebration mode, for there was much to celebrate with this reunion: a life-long friendship, precious girl time, becoming a tourist myself through the eyes of a first time visitor to Sicily, sharing the rhythms of daily life here, and dare I mention, the beginning of a new decade (yes, we are both 40 now!).

In addition to just being together, catching up, lots of laughter, and of course shopping, we also accomplished A LOT. From a day at Taormina, to a tour of my favorite 'aci' towns, to several walks in Catania's centro storico, and a jeep ride up to the tip top of windy snowy Etna, I think I was able to share some of the local highlights with the somewhat authentic twist that comes from seeing the sites with someone who actually lives here and speaks the language. Along the way we talked with a lot of extremely friendly Sicilians who were curious about the English speaking tall blond and her shorter, darker companion (that would be me). This was a new sort of Sicilian hospitality that on my own or with my Sicilian husband has never seemed so intense. I blame it on the special energy that emanated from us as a couple of re-united best buddies on the rampage (and the fact that my pal is really quite stunning).

The week-long visit concluded with a family road trip. We designed the trip around a special meal at what has been rated as one of Sicily's finest restaurants, La Madia, located in the chef's hometown of Licata. We also had the pleasure of sleeping in the cutest apartment located in a lovely little piazza just across from Licata's port, Antica Dimora San Girolamo. In addition to this memorable evening in Licata, we were also able to visit some of the most pristine beaches I have ever seen in Sicily, located just to the east and west of Licata. The weather was perfect and the water glistening. Two brave souls (that would be my hubby and tall blond pal) actually went for swims, while the 3 year old and myself were content to collect shells and only get our feet wet. Along the way we also got to experience olive pressing, wine making, and the colorful ceramics of Caltagirone.

Reflecting back on this fantastic week I have the desire to bottle up all the good memories so I can take them out whenever I have the need for that special feeling that comes with spending time with friends who have know you for just about forever. Thank you for this wonderful week together Kris!

There she is swimming by a castle near Falconara!

the grape harvest

2010-10-25T15:06:00.007+02:00

Welcome to the winery and vineyards of Alice Buonaccorsi, located in the countryside of Randazzo and at the splendid foothills of Mt. Etna. This is a small, family run operation that produces about 30,000 bottles of wine a year under the label ValCerasa and has been in operation since 2001.

As soon as we set foot on the Buonaccorsi property, we were swept up in the excitement of the grape harvest, or vendemmia. Thanks to a sister-in-law who knows just about everyone, our family of three was able to tag along on the exciting experience of participating in the process from beginning to end. We discovered that the grapes are mostly picked over a period of four days, that no pesticides are used here, and that those grapes (mostly nerello mascalese) are juicy and deliciously sweet when eaten off the vine (yes, we tasted a few!).

We were each given a pair of scissors so that we could cut the bunches of grapes off of the vines from their stem, and a basket for collecting them in. The sun warmed our bodies and the occasional cloud coverings equally cooled them as we worked away for over an hour in those lovely fields. Back in the canteen, the children were fitted with rubber boots and got to let loose the old-fashioned way: grape stomping. The kids really had fun and before we knew it had squished and smashed every one of the grapes we had picked in the fields with 4 pairs of feet ranging from 3 years old to 10 years old.

In between the 'work' we got to play with puppies, climb on ancient olive trees, meet Michelangelo the donkey, track down a pair of sheep, sample wild fennel, collect chestnuts off the ground, run and skip down dirt paths, fulfill our appetites with pasta al forno, and quench our thirst with a homegrown bottle of red wine.

The life of the Buonaccorsi family is tantalizingly passionate and pure. Spending a day as their friends during this time of year was special on so many different levels, but mostly for allowing us to dream about such a life, what it would be like to live among the fields in and old farmhouse at the foothills of Etna...a pretty marvelous place to be if you ask me!

A few local adventures

2010-10-13T15:52:00.008+02:00

Here's a quick attempt to share some of the more local Sicilian adventures we've been having the last few months:

I went to the circus with my 3 year old. I had my reservations, not much different than those related to going to the zoo, but somewhat worse since the circus evokes images of animals being whipped into servitude and living in the insane conditions that come with traveling on the road. But since there are so few kid-oriented events in Sicily, I decided to keep an open mind and let my son experience the circus as the magical spectacle it would surely be from his 3 year old point of view. Although not 100% 3 year old appropriate (due to some very crazy clowns) and definitely disturbing in terms of the animals, my son loved just about every minute of it and it was hard not to get swept up in his enthusiasm despite my inner squeamishness.

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Villa Bellini has reopened! The only real park in Catania's center, Villa Bellini has been mostly closed for over 2 years of restoration work. We went for a visit the very first weekend it reopened and it has plenty of walking paths and fountains and benches and play spots. We all hope the city will be able to maintain it as the clean, inviting green space it is, something Catania has been sorely missing.

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A birthday to remember. Living in Sicily is its most fun when discovering new places. With a birthday at home this year I felt inspired to do just that and visit a spot that had been at the top of my list for years now (I emphasize the my because the other adult member of this family has a different opinion about more touristy destinations, but on my special day I could not be denied this one). My day trip of choice? One of Sicily's most beautiful spots--Isola Bella. After all these years I had never been, and we had a truly spectacular morning there. The photo says it all I think. The place is breathtaking, the snorkeling is wonderful, and the shallow pools of turquoise water and soft, pebbly sand make it a paradise for kids as well. Yes, it is a little nightmarish finding parking and carrying your beach gear down (and back up) all those steps to get to the water. But, if you go off-season, get there early and leave early to avoid the crowds, it is so worth it. A peaceful spot that makes you instantly feel like you are on vacation, even for just a few hours.

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Some new discoveries: We finally figured out how to get to the ancient Roman baths called Santa Venera al Pozzo and located in Aci Catena. The place is beautiful and quite large, but only open on Sundays at noon when the little church (S. Venera) on the site is used for mass. We could only peak through the fence and wander around the perimeter of the site, but at least we now know how to get there and when a visit might actually allow us to view the ruins from the other side of the fence.

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And if you are in the Acireale area and happen to be looking for a place to eat, try the popular and rustically charming seafood restaurant I Cavaddari, tucked away in the small town of Santa Caterina just below Acireale. There is a wonderful little courtyard and a surprising array of house antipasti that can turn your usual lunch into a special feast. It is also worth taking a stroll through the town towards the beach. In a few short minutes you will have a breathtaking view of the rocky coastline, and if weather permits you can climb down the steep staircase to experience the water up close.

from Turkey to Aidone

2010-09-27T22:12:00.006+02:00

After our time in Turkey, I rolled right into the next project, based an hour-and-a-half away by car in the Morgantina Museum, town of Aidone, region of Enna, somehow still island of Sicily. It took me some time to get over the shock of this temporary but still grueling commuter life. Imagine this: 3 hours in a car everyday driving half the time at wheel-gripping high speeds on the autostrada and the other half on equally wheel-gripping hilly, curvy terrain, always circuitous but with no other way to make it to the tippy top of the very high hill on which the lovely, breezy, never-too hot town of Aidone is perched.

I didn't see much of Aidone other than the inside of the museum and the bar down the road I frequented for my daily more (that would be blackberry) or gelsi (that would be mulberry) granita. And the breathtaking views as I descended from the town down to the site of Morgantina itself when I was asked to advise on some conservation issue as the American archaeologists and students uncovered more of the marvelous Hellenistic baths they have been excavating there since 2001.

As I got used to the commute and the full-time immersion that is archaeological field conservation, I also learned to enjoy those drives and take full advantage of the novelty of having all that time to myself. Loud retro music on Virgin Radio became my best friend on those drives. And my eyes grew attached to the changing landscape I drove through. Starting with the citrus groves in the Piana di Catania/Palagonia area, quickly moving into the drier, never-ending yellow of Sicily's breadbasket in the Raddusa area: nothing but hills of wheat fields as far as the eye could see. Other finer details did not escape me either: the smell of eucalyptus that signaled I was beginning the climb up to Aidone, how tiny I felt as I wound my way around rows of wind turbines that dotted a certain stretch of golden fields, the detour around a collapsed tunnel that required slowing down to a snails pace and let me peek through the fence of an inviting agriturismo, and on the ride home that first glimpse of the spectacular stretch of blue sea from the Catania exit of the autostrada that reminded me that all this driving was worth it if it meant I could spend the evenings at home with my family.

A Sicilian summer work adventure you could call it. And I do recommend exploring the Aidone-Morgantina area. I'll tell you the best route to get there!

the landscape around Aidone with Mt. Etna near (click to see those wind turbines)

...and far

and the part of the museum you don't want to see!

This is village life 2

2010-09-27T19:26:00.009+02:00

Too much silence....

This summer was wonderful but really non-stop work and travel. So much has happened, but let me begin by picking up where I left off, sharing a few photos back from our time in Turkey.

Living in a small village in eastern Anatolia forces you to slow down and take in all the details of daily life, simple pleasures like eating fresh village bread. Not much has changed in a few millennia in this regard. This year we were able to document the entire bread making process, which begins early in the morning before most of the family awakens. The women prepare the neat rows of dough balls on large round trays that they carry on their head over to the tannur oven (like the tandoor oven in India). The lighting of the oven takes quite some time and is a matter of placing twigs and paper inside and lighting it with a match to get a fire going. Once hot the balls of dough are deftly twirled around till they become flattened discs. A little water on the inside of the oven, some egg brushed on top of the dough, and the next thing you know those discs are stuck all along the oven's slanted walls in gravity defying circles. Just a few minutes later, they are peeled off one by one, now transformed into fragrant, hot, puffy rounds of the most delicious bread, wrapped carefully in cloth and stacked on the tray for the family's supply of bread for the week.

Lingering around the hot oven, with lots of smiling and picture taking usually guarantees a sample of the delicious bread, best gobbled down with sliced tomatoes, cucumbers, olives and a little sheep cheese. Looking at these pictures, I remember trying to handle the burning hot bread and impatiently waiting for it to cool a little so I could savour the wonderful taste of fresh flat bread. There's nothing else like it, really.

Feeling far away

2010-07-17T14:12:00.010+02:00

this is village life

I have been both physically and mentally away from Sicily (and the blog) for 42 days and counting! For the second time since becoming a mama who lives in Sicily I have survived and for the most part thoroughly enjoyed the experience of working on my hubby's excavation in south eastern Turkey while bringing the adaptable little 3 year old along for the adventure. It is much easier to say that now than a few days ago since the hard work is over and we are vacationing at a you-can-find-absolutely-everything-you-could-possibly-need-right-here-so-please-don't-step-out-of-this-paradise-for-one-minute kind of beach resort. Not our usual choice for relaxation, but living in a tiny rural village in the Tigris river valley can push you to new extremes, and this 'unwinding' ritual is one of them.

Even though I am now sitting in a perfectly air conditioned room after having indulged in a longer than normal hot shower, I already miss aspects of village life. The houses we live and work in are just specks on a vast patchwork of agricultural fields that stretch across the entire region. During our time in the valley the fields are mostly the dull yellow color of wheat that is itching to be harvested. That harvesting will eventually take place all around us as we sit in our hot, crumbling, abandoned until we arrived houses, working away. Nothing but fields all around interrupted by the dusty brown of mudbrick houses, now used for storage or animal pens as the families that can afford it (and our village is a well-off one) prefer the modern feel of cement houses that they erect right next to the former ones.

There are a few green patches thanks to leaky irrigation pipes and the mosque's garden that invite swarms of swallows and an ever increasing number of tadpoles and croaky frogs that, once we get used to them, become our bedtime music (rather than headache) each and every night.

The stillness of village life is only interrupted by the five times a day call to prayer, and the dirt road that passes through, a way to get somewhere else for mini-buses and occasionally cars, but most definitely primarily used by the tractors driven by the family members who own and work the land all around.

All throughout the region amidst the low rounded hills, unusually large, flattened mounds can be spotted. One of these is our village's backdrop, lookout point and prime location for cell phone reception until a few years ago (reception has improved) These are the tepes or hoyuks, the accumulation of centuries of ancient occupation, layer upon layer of human existence that make this region so exciting for archaeologists.

Further in the distance, when the eyes are really sore of the endless fields, the Turabdin mountain range comes into focus. They frame the endless fields and remind you that not too far away there is something else (the beautiful town of Mardin and Syria beyond).

But the best time of all is when the sky is black. That means temperatures have dropped and the gentle evening breezes allow the mind to finally clear itself of sweaty thoughts, that during the day care nothing more than if the electricity is working so at least I can sweat while sitting in front of a fan. At night the cans of Efes beer come out (sometimes raki), laughter echos, and the walk through the village to the little house where we sleep is a magical journey through glittering starlight, and how do you explain to a three year old what the milky way is and why he can't touch the stars? While I love my hot showers, I will miss seeing those stars and saying good morning and good night to the owls who live in the chimneys of our little house.

freshly squeezed juices taste better in Turkey

the beautiful town of Mardin, a quick escape from village life

American style...

2010-05-31T14:30:00.004+02:00

American style + Catanese facade

Levi's have never looked so good!

(but only for looking, I'll never buy my Levi's in Europe--way too expensive!)

Catania's castles

2010-05-17T08:50:00.005+02:00

I am sucker for castles and have had the chance to visit many during my time in Italy. To visit my favorite I don't have to go very far, since it is right here in Aci Castello. When friends and family are in town for a visit I am happy for the excuse to make the climb up for breathtaking coastal views and what always turns out to be a meandering exploration of the many different spaces within, that includes a charming cactus garden and funky civic museum.

Although a little more planning is necessary to visit Catania's Castello Ursino, a recent family outing reminded me that it, too, is worthwhile. Piazza Federico di Svevia, in which the castle is the centerpiece, is an inviting space with some benches and greenery in the middle of a residential neighborhood in Catania's historic center. I find it fascinating that when this castle was originally constructed in the 13th century it was actually positioned right on the coastline that is now located a mile or so away due to the 1669 Etna eruption.

The castle we see today is the result of an 1830s restoration. You have to walk across a small bridge that spans the moat to get inside for a visit to Catania’s Museo Civico. The admission is free, and on the ground floor you can see archaeological pieces that were mostly collected by the Prince of Biscari in the 19th century. From here you can also exit the castle for a walk around its base for a true sense of the building's monumentality. Back inside, there is a second floor to visit that displays Sicilian religious paintings, as well as a small gallery that is dedicated to rotating exhibits.

Catania is surprisingly (or as some might say, embarassingly) short on museums for a city of its cultural richness and size, but at least this museum is attempting to fill that gap. Although I do hope that the city’s archaeological museum will reopen someday, here you’ll spend a pleasant hour or so viewing a small museum in an impressive Norman castle, without spending a penny.

All you ever wanted to know about Sicily

2010-05-02T16:10:00.005+02:00

If you are interested in Sicilian history, please check out this video via mizzica.com, clever, humorous and most importantly, Sicilian! I could barely follow the narrator who speeds through the history of this island in a way I never dreamed was possible, but I love the graphics and the message is clear--Sicilian history is a jumble of clashing cultures and never ending change. Am also pleased to have discovered this new blog that, in addition to selling traditional Sicilian sweets and pastries in its on-line shop, also generously reveals some of those hidden gems about the island worthy of discovery for travelers and foodies alike. This post really makes me want to plan a trip to the Nebrodi mountains, an area neither myself or Sicilian hubby have visited.

I love NY

2010-05-01T15:36:00.004+02:00

Oh no, I really have disappeared from the blogosphere! I have stumbled into that trap--fall behind your posts and you might never catch up. I have an immense backlog of photos that continues to pile up and remind me of all the wonderful things I would like to share with you. But for now, let me post this shot of Robert Indiana's LOVE sculpture that helps, at least in part, to explain my recent absence: a very last-minute trip to NYC where my west coast based immediate family converged with my extended east coast family and I found my heartstrings could not be left out of this one. So my son and I crossed the Atlantic for 9 days of jet lagged fun. It was totally worth it and we were so lucky to be able to make it home with no delays despite the cloud of volcanic ash that covered so much of Europe. This sculpture really does sum up my sentiments for the Big Apple -NYC, I really do love you!

Catania's pupi

2010-03-31T20:10:00.000+02:00

I am a great admirer of Sicilian pupi. Until recently I had never experienced a live puppet performance. But since my first visits to the island I was made aware first by hubby and guidebooks, and later by my own reading, that the tacky little souvenirs dangling from all the tourist shops actually represent one of the most important folk art traditions in Sicily.

I was so enamored by the antique puppets that we actually decided to purchase a few of our own. On a tactile level I view the pupi as miniature mixed media sculptures. This is folk art, yes, but some puppets, especially the antiques, have finely carved faces and elaborately decorated armor. Living with my own little collection of four old, dusty pupi, I am acutely aware that the makers of these objects were skilled craftsman, able to carve and paint wood, shape and emboss brass sheet metal, and construct the detailed costumes that clothe the cast of characters that make up the opera dei pupi.

But my appreciation of these seemingly stiff, bulky objects reached a new level after experiencing them as powerful actors in the hands of the pupeteering masters, the Fratelli Napoli, one of Catania's surviving puppeteering families that dedicate their lives to keeping this craft alive. We saw their recent performance of Cristo al Golgota at the Lomax Theater in Catania. While the subject matter of this particular performance was not all that appealing to us, especially with a three year old, we were amazed at how the pupi came to life in the hands of such skilled masters. Only in the context of a performance does the art of the Sicilian pupi become evident, with the combination of subtle and dramatic gestures, carefully orchestrated scenes and set designs, music and narration. This may be storytelling at its most fascinating!

Three more performances are scheduled at the Lomax in April, May and June, any of which are likley to be a bit more upbeat for the younger crowd than the one we saw in March.

archaeology or flowers

2010-03-30T16:30:00.001+02:00

On our recent day trip to the Palagonia-Mineo area, there were many discoveries.

The photo I snapped of the 'bubble gum pink house' (thanks Jann!) sprouting prickly pear cacti from the roof and balcony was taken very close to the archaeological site of Palike'. The site is built within and next to a natural rocky hill, where you can see Bronze Age rock-cut tombs. There are also later architectural remains from the Greek to early Christian periods and a fascinating history that you can read all about in the link.

If you actually visit the site, you won't learn much more than what you can gather from peering through the fence that surrounds it, unless you make a private appointment with the archaeological superintendency of Catania. This seems somewhat appalling since 1 million euros have been invested in excavating the site and constructing a museum to house the finds. What is the point in investing so much in an interesting and beautiful site without making it readily accessible to the public?

In the end, it was all about the fields of wildflowers that surround the site, which are just incredible at the moment. For where there are blossoms, there are also butterflies and bees. It took a lot of bribery to get the little boy out of the flowers and back into the car.

Some practical information: cost of living in Aci Castello

2010-03-24T16:20:00.005+01:00

I was recently contacted by an American who is considering retiring in Aci Castello. This individual has been having a difficult time understanding what the basic cost of living is here.

I thought it might be useful to post our exchange in case there are others out there with similar questions or that have additional information to add.

Q: I was wondering if it was possible to tell me the cost of living for two people per month on average including rental (max 2 bedroom), utilities and food (eating in mostly). Can a couple live comfortable on $30, 000 per year?

A: Here are the basic costs you can expect in Aci Castello (all prices are in Euro) based on a frugal yet comfortable life style. This list does not include any 'extras' (eating out in restaurants, coffees in bars, traveling, etc.) and all costs are estimates and intended only to give a general idea of cost of living here.

-rent for a two bedroom apartment 600-700

-utilities:

ca. 100 every two months for electricity (without air conditioner)

ca. 100 every two months for gas

ca. 10/month for water

-phone/internet service: 90/month

-Condominium fees: ca 10/month

-Food for a family eating three meals a day at home: 700/month

-Car insurance: ca 100/month

-TV tax: 100/year

-Garbage collecting tax: depends on square meters of your home but could cost from 100-600/year.

What does that all equal? If I got my math right, the grand total (not including garbage tax or car insurance, let alone purchasing a car) is 1620/month, which is under 20,000 a year.

If anyone out there reading this has something to add to the list or changes to make, please let me know!

when nature takes over

2010-03-21T16:20:00.003+01:00

I never imagined prickly pear cacti could grow spontaneously from the roof of an abandoned house (at least I don't think anyone would do this on purpose!), but here is the proof that such things do happen in Sicily.

This was one of our many photo opportunities from our morning exploring the Palagonia area in the Val di Catania.

bits and pieces

2010-03-12T14:33:00.006+01:00

As signs of spring peak out from under the black volcanic rocks that give my neighborhood its name--la scogliera--I yearn for the little undeveloped patches overgrown with weeds and crumbling stone sheds that can be seen now and again along this otherwise very built up coastline. A lucky friend of mine has the fortune of living right next door to one of these patches of wonderful neglect (that's her patch in the photo), which at this time of year are bursting with life, no longer able to fit into their fences and terraced walls. Yellow, purple and orange blossoms, creeping vines and the sporadic olive or citrus tree are reminders of an altogether different landscape, similar to what can still be seen away from the urban centers on this part of the island. Putting together these bits and pieces it's not hard to imagine what this coastal area must have looked like 30 years ago. Beautiful, don't you think?

pink and blue

2010-03-02T12:59:00.002+01:00

Shocking pink and blue sunset, so beautiful, but only lasted for a few minutes.

Montegonzi and beyond

2010-02-24T17:16:00.001+01:00

Just back from the breathtaking Tuscan beauty of Montegonzi and beyond. We slept in our friend's family house, a wooden-beamed nook next to the town's little church with the most punctual chiming bells that only disturbed our slumbers on the first night. In addition to gazing at the lines of olive trees that dominate these hills and makes the region famous for its olive oil production, we enjoyed plenty of relaxed evenings sitting by the fire, letting the kids be kids, and sampling some of the region's culinary specialities (I passed on the meat and was very happy with the cheese and wine). The days were filled with long drives on windy roads that took us on what always seemed like a circuitous path to a number of lovely destinations.

Rapolano Terme was good for the body and soul, not to mention the lingering winter chest colds. A stop in the heart of Chianti wine country at Radda, was just a place to get a coffee, enjoy the views, peek in the church, and wander the narrow streets en route to a lunch date in the area of another friend's house in Badia a Passignano. Here we discovered he lives in a virtual Tuscan dream, that would be the beautifully restored former stone barn with a tower. I still don't know if it was more enjoyable being awed by this gorgeous home, or the 10 minute drive on a dirt road to the unlikely ending of a sit down lunch in a rustically beautiful converted farmhouse restaurant.

We also made it to Florence. In fact, spent an entire day doing nothing but strolling around with an almost 3 year old while hubby attended to his work duties. I am convinced the rain stopped just for us. The little boy discovered the excitment of climbing up a bell tower (that would be the Duomo), got over the disappointment of the Natural History museum being closed, got wet chasing pigeons in a neighborhood playground (I actually had the foresight to stuff a change of shoes and socks into my backpack), behaved nicely at a sit down lunch, rested (at least I did) at the friend's tiny apartment overlooking the Arno, glimpsed Galileo's telescopes at the Science Museum, and for the rest of the time was more than content to be pushed around this lovely city following his Mama's whims.

the aftermath

2010-02-13T14:05:00.010+01:00

This morning, walking into Catania's historic center, we caught a whiff of burning wax and then came across a barricaded street where a group of city workers were busy cleaning up the wax that had accumulated on the streets--the final remnants of the three days of Saint Agata festivities. I had never really thought about the mess that must be created by all that dripping wax, let alone the necessity of removing it. A crowd had gathered to watch this team of workers and their systematic method of first breaking up large clumps of wax, then melting it down with hand held torches (more like catching it on fire), covering up the melted areas with what looked like piles of sand that absorbed the liquified wax and could be swept up off the streets. These men worked efficiently despite the constant chatter between them and with acquaintances walking by.

Composting

2010-02-11T21:18:00.008+01:00

I have been meaning to start composting since we moved to our Sicilian house with a garden. Living in NYC in cramped quarters and no outdoor space, this is one of those things I craved in my dreamy scenarios of a luscious backyard filled with sweet smelling flowers, juicy tomatos and potloads of fragrant herbs.

So what took me so long to finally get my act together (about a year and a half to be precise)??? To give myself a little credit, at least twice over the last year I did spend hours at a time doing on-line searches about making your own compost bin. I was even inspired to make a special trip to Bricocenter looking for the right things to build one with, yet still came home empty handed. I had this fantasy of an attractive container that would add something aesthetically pleasing to the yard, but really had no skills or vision to turn that fantasy into reality. And asking around my local circle I couldn't seem to find anyone who knew anything about composters, nor did I come up with any Italian on-line shops.

Then, two days ago, I recalled a distant memory of a friend of mine who had composted on the terrace of her apartment using nothing more than a plastic garbage can. I watched a video on-line about converting trash cans to composters. Nothing to it, really. I finally came to the realization that it wasn't the container that mattered, but the act of composting itself. And all that was stopping me was a simple garbage can. So the very next day I embraced this project with renewed enthusiasm, bypassed the usual Bricocenter, and used this errand as an opportunity to make a first visit to the new to me fai da te (do it yourself), Alfea, that I had heard about from a friend (LOVE this place!). Within a few minutes of stepping foot in the store, I had located the perfect trash can with tight fitting lid and all. And then as I dragged the garbage can through the aisles towards the check-out line, I stumbled through the gardening section and right into the happiest suprise yet--a not-too-pricey Italian-made compostiera, aka composter bin (I know, now that I know the terminology, I see how easy it would have been to purchase this on-line in Italy, maybe a year and half ago?!?!?). Without a second thought, I switched the trash can for this ready-made composter that fate finally seemed to have brought my way.

Now nestled in a corner by the vegetable patch, the new compster, containing its first mixture of leaves and fruit peels, feels like a long lost buddy who has found his way home. A symbol of an unnecessarily long personal struggle to turn good intentions into reality, when nothing was holding me back other than that extra little bit of oomph sometimes necessary when living in a foreign country.

Any composting tips to share to help keep me on track?

And look at our recently planted fava beans that are sprouting up so nicely!

S. Agata continues

2010-02-05T14:21:00.003+01:00

Catania transformed!

In front of Palazzo Biscari, procession of the candelora by day...

...and by night

Photos taking during the festa di Sant'Agata in 2002

The fervor begins - S. Agata

2010-02-04T09:51:00.013+01:00

First glimpse of the Saint, in the cathedral

Waiting for the Saint to emerge

A devotee resting (notice the gloves, the melting wax burns)

Sant'Agata

The final descent towards the cathedral

The festa di Sant'Agata, Catania's patron saint, is about to begin. I probably won't be able to experience the excitement this year, but looking through our photos taken in 2002 I am swept back to a Catania transformed. It was an exciting time. We were newly married. I had only been living in Rome for a few months. My husband wanted to share this experience with me and also experience it in a way he himself had never done growing up here. So we followed Sant'Agata through the city, all three days of the event. Not continuously, like true devotees. But back and forth we traveled on Feb 4, 5 and 6 to witness this incredibly moving event. We documented the experience with photos, slides, and sound recordings, fully succumbing to the excitement. We saw the saint emerge from the cathedral, where she is hidden away for the entire year only to come out for this holy event. The devotees, dressed in white robes, black velvet caps, waving white handkerchiefs (which do have symbolic meaning which you can read about in the link if you read Italian), wait impatiently inside, outside, wherever they can squeeze their bodies, to have the long-awaited first glimpse of their beloved saint. The noise!!!! It is deafening. They scream and cry with emotion 'Siamo tutti devoti tutti' (we are all devotees, all of us!!!) and it goes on and on. The saint is carried through the streets of Catania. Everyone crowds her waiting to touch her to give an offering, to light a candle, to have their child blessed. She is followed and lead and dragged through the narrow streets at a snail's pace. There are lights, vendors, balloons, crowds. The sun rises and sets and it continues. The 11 canderole (huge candles encased in elaborate wooden sculptures that originally functioned to light the way for the procession) proceed the saint, the weight of each carried on the shoulders of groups of men representing specific professions (fishermen, florists, etc.), who grunt along, pausing, moving forward, accepting offerings, as they make their way along the procession. And then there are the individual devotees, who express their devotion and thanks to the saint by carrying candles in the procession, small and large. The larger the candle, the bigger the miracle performed by the saint, the greater the gratitude to be expressed by the devotee. And finally, after hours and hours of this unending fervor, the saint is returned to the cathedral, where the devotees mourn her re-entry. They weep and cry for they do not want to see their beloved go away.

Blogging from the Boot

2010-02-02T13:33:00.003+01:00

I discovered a few days ago that a post of mine was nominated for the 'Blogging from the Boot' writing contest. Definitely some good reads on the site. Check it out and vote if you feel like it!

Tailgating

2010-01-31T14:25:00.005+01:00

Since moving here I have tried to adopt the 'right' attitude about driving in Sicily so that I would never let this obvious annoyance 'get to me'. I mean, there is no way you can change the way these people drive. It is just a reality of living here. They are insane, so you better just accept it. Why beat myself over the head, tear my hair out, holler, shake fists, rant and rave, make obscene gestures, and the like, when the only thing such reactions accomplish is more aggravation and negative energy than the incidents themselves? So, I have molded myself into one of those extremely alert and (mostly) very calm drivers that no one or nothing can bother, as long as no real dangers to me and my family are involved. I really try to uphold this philosophy when driving and I am sure I am not the first expat to say this.

But I do have my lapses, especially when alone. Can you blame me when the guy driving in front of me is going literally 15 miles an hour in a 45 mph stretch of road because he is having a lively, fully engaged conversation, hand movements, eye contact and all, with the pal sitting next to him, having no thought of the line of cars impatiently trailing him? Such scenarios are common. Extremely slow drivers here usually fall into one of two categories: those obliviously talking on cell phones, or eldery people who are probably scared out of their minds to be surrounded by such unpredictible and unaware (or uncaring is probably a better word) fellow drivers.

So there stuck behind this slow driver, as I felt my annoyance level reach what felt like an all time high, I found myself getting closer and closer to the car in front of me. Yes, I was blatantly tailgating. It was not so much the ridiculously slow speed that was bothering me, it was more the fact that he did not care one little bit for saftey or general road etiquette and the effects of his driving style on the world around him. So, my only recourse was blatant tailgating while muttering to myself 'can you see me yet you idiot, pull over and let us pass if you are unable to drive at a normal speed and have a conversation with your pal at the same time!°?&%#!!!!'

And then I was reminded how none of this matters and how ridiculous I was being when I was terrified by a different sort of uncaring driver that shook me to my senses. I am talking about the other extreme kind of driver commonly encountered here in Sicily -- the excessive speeders. This guy was no doubt just as annoyed as I was by the slow going car, but rather than stew and simmer about it, he decided to act. I heard the reving engine before I saw I was being passed by a car from behind at what seemed like 70 mph. No matter that the oncoming traffic on this two lane, two way road was right there in front of us. Yes, this was a near miss head on collosion. I don't even think the slow guy noticed the almost accident that took place in front of us as he was still so engrossed in his conversation. My heart skipped a beat, I backed off the slow guy and could do nothing more than shake my head back and forth in disbelief. These drivers never stop to annoy, baffle and unfortunatley scare me to death almost every day of my Sicilian life.

And then suddenly the slow guy pulled over and slowly I, along with all the cars behind me, picked up speed heading into the city as if nothing had happened.

Snow

2010-01-23T11:40:00.001+01:00

Have been staying indoors a lot these days: work, sore throat (me), stuffy nose (toddler), hubby out of town, cold afternoons. While staying indoors can be nice and cozy, sometimes it means making an extra effort on my part to keep my little boy's boundless energy focused on something other than torturing the cat (or me!). Fantasizing about a family trip to a snowy mountain (maybe next weekend?), we had fun making our own snow on this contact sheet snowman collage. Those little fingers loved lining up the felt pieces in the outlines I had drawn (until he got bored with that) and especially sticking cotton wads all over the place. As usual with these kinds of activities, I was probably the one who had the most fun!

Alone...

2010-01-20T21:35:00.006+01:00

Just me. Free to be me all by myself (went away on an overnight work trip to Rome). A first in almost 3 years!

I had a non-stop private celebration throughout the two days of hard work. It didn't even matter that I hardly had a free minute to indulge in my favorite Italian city because there was plenty of time to do nothing but be me and that was what I wanted.

But as time ticked by, my legs instinctively itched for the airport, my heartstrings pulled me south. By the 35th hour or so (I was away for a total of 41), I couldn't wait to get back home to the little pieces of me that were patiently waiting for my return.

Snug. Perfect fit. And then I felt whole again.

Conclusions? It was great to have a little time away, but coming home is even better!

A long holiday

2010-01-15T15:53:00.007+01:00

Hello again and Happy 2010!
Three wonderful weeks in Los Angeles
Settling back into life in Sicily with a positive outlook for 2010
Feeling energetic
Still carrying those special moments from holiday time with family close to me...
Let me share with you a few of them!

Dinosaur Park, San Gabriel, CA

Sepulveda Basin Wildlife Preserve

Family Fun Room, Getty Center

Oak Trees, Arroyo Seco, Pasadena

Walt Disney Concert Hall, downtown LA

Look forward to catching up with all my favorite blogs!

big, little and blue

2009-12-09T01:00:00.000+01:00

I love the contrast of the small fishing boat against the large ship as it slowly moves across the horizon. I am taking in all this blue as we prepare to pack bags and head home for the holidays. And that blue is something powerful. Being down on the rocks this morning, so sunny and peaceful and overwhelmingly blue, I was able to relax and let all thoughts about the upcoming travels slip away from me. The mesmerizing effect of the morning stayed with me all day, through an impromptu family lunch chez nous and the usual afternoon/evening routine. Now if I can keep those sweet blue dreams with me tonight and every night to get me through the next few days one calm step at a time I will really believe in the power of blue.

pilot for a day...

2009-12-08T09:00:00.002+01:00

Family day at the Guardia Costiera (Coast Guard) base here in Catania is the best thing I've done in a while. I think the 2 year old would agree. After having the freedom to run through the hangar, playing 'pilot' in the helicopters and small planes, we got to climb aboard a larger plane with a few other coast guard families and their kids for the real deal. This was a special flight to Taormina and back, a quick jaunt with the pros. What made this so fun was the freedom we had on board to move around, look out the windows, sit on the pilot's lap (my son, that is!), have fun with the kids, and take in all the breathtaking views of the coastline. The plane flew low so it was easy to pick out all the well-known landmarks--of course Aci Castello's castle, and even our house. From my few seconds in the cockpit I had an unreal sense of all this beauty surrounding me, and I couldn't help but think this might be one of the best places in the world to be a pilot. Thank you Isabella and Giuseppe for an incredible day. The little 'pilota' is still talking about the experience and I will surely treasure the memory of this truly unique day.

December scenes

2009-12-07T14:39:00.006+01:00

----------------------------------------

Between working, creative projects, holidays, motherhood, there has been little time for blogging. Partly it is this gorgeous weather. Whenever there is free time, it has been much more appealing to unglue myself from the computer and head outdoors. At least these photos can give you a little idea of what we've been up to! More scenes from Ognina and the clouds above Riposto.

Merry-go-not

2009-11-19T15:25:00.002+01:00

Light-flashing, pop music-blasting merry-go-rounds with none of the charm of the 'traditional' rides I remember fondly from my childhood can be found all over the Catania area, conveniently placed in just the spot where your little one will be sure to not miss it. Well, my negative take on these eye sores has slowly developed into tolerant acceptance, but I have never purposely sought one out to this day. My son recognizes certain merry-go-rounds that can be spotted from the car on our more well-traveled routes, and of course, this little boy wants to ride on the merry-go-rounds. He doesn't find the music annoying (but does the volume have to be so loud?). And he loves the little race cars, jeeps, and flying dragons that whirl him around and around and around. His level of passion for these rides seems to be only increasing with age. So, when convenient, I succumb to this whimsy. I dole out the 3, 4 or 5 Euros for 4 or 5 rides, sit back, and try not to feel dizzy with my waving from the sidelines. And as my resigned self has come to accept, most of these merry-go-rounds are in much better shape than the shabby playground you will find across the street. In fact, I can't help but wonder if these privately owned, modern contraptions make a fortune on the fact that the public, free facilities are often in such poor condition. Sigh. One more compromise that no longer irks but has merely become part of the reality of mama life in Sicily.

surprises

2009-11-18T12:15:00.006+01:00

These unusual sightings caught me off guard a few weeks ago.

City rainbow peeking through Catania's buildings. The entire drive was like playing peek-a-boo with a giant band of shocking rainbow color. The photo just doesn't do it justice, but it was amazing.

The sudden cloud covering followed by the ping-pong downpour of ice balls whizzing down from the sky onto the pavement startled me from my work. Can't remember the last time I experienced a 5 minute hail storm that disappeared as quickly as it came.

This week, though, it feels like summer and I am loving it while it lasts!

Catch of the day

2009-11-14T23:16:00.006+01:00

Ingredients: sunshine, a net, a Sicilian hubby, crystal clear water, curious toddler,...

you get: six baby scampi, several hermit crabs, and a big ole' black crab for some morning fun.

(P.S. living ingredients returned to their habitat unharmed)

Alta Moda Catania style

2009-11-04T21:50:00.003+01:00

Marella Ferrera is her name. Never heard of her? I hadn't either. But we all might want to since she is Catania's link to the world of Italian alta moda. And fashionista or not, you can experience the designer's creative work in person by visiting her atelier, which occupies a small corner of the stunning Palazzo Biscari here in Catania. The space is divided into two long corridors, one dark, suggestive, dramatic, hip--the 'Museum'--and the other sun-drenched, filled with racks of the latest made-to-order gowns--the 'MF Studio'.

In 2008 the Biscari family decided to open up this corner of their palazzo to high fashion in commemoration of the 250th anniversary of the palace's original museum, which once stood in this very place. Take a breath and see if you can say this without pausing--Prince Iganzio Paterno' Castello V Prince of Biscari (phew!)--well he was the family's forefather who created a natural science and antiquities gallery here, famed in the 1700s (and visited by Goethe) for being one of the most important museums in Italy at the time.

While the current incarnation of the 'museum' has nothing whatsoever to do with the original one, the tie here is more conceptual and symbolic than anything else. But in addition to the installation showcasing Ferrera's innovative style, 'Oltre l'abito...il pensiero', you will see some remnants of the past--the original tiled flooring, two excavated stone altars--as well as some contemporary paintings, in this most unusual of spaces. Feels more NYC than Catania, that's for sure!

P.S. the historical information was translated from the Museum-Fashion web site.

Playground update

2009-11-03T14:59:00.005+01:00

Although a visit to the Parco Gioeni requires a drive along Catania's often congested circonvallazione, it may be worth the hassle once you get there. This very urban park is perched on top of a hill and is a pleasant mixture of brick walkways, dirt paths and lots of greenery, despite the concrete jungle that surrounds it. The park is big enough and closed off enough that it feels safe to let your kid run loose. Walking down the different pathways will lead you to hidden nooks of functional play equipment, basketball hoops, and skateboarder friendly cement, giving a sense of exploration and discovery to the little ones. And as you wander towards the open platform at the far end where the dog walkers gather, you will discover the impressive view of Catania's coastline stretching out far below you. If you look hard enough you will also find the remains of an ancient aqueduct nearby. After the fun we had here this weekend, this spot may have moved to my number one Catanese playground destination.

Cultural Catania

2009-11-02T10:30:00.001+01:00

Palazzo della Cultura is the 15th century 'Palazzo Platomone' converted into a convent (Convento San Placido) in the 1700s and now one of Catania's most beautiful cultural spaces. Even though I have walked by this structure unknowingly many times in the past, it wasn't until a friend and relatively new resident to the area mentioned it to me (thank you Lucia!) that I realized this was a place worth entering. According to long time residents of Catania, the palazzo has been used for concerts and conferences for years. But based on my recent visit, there are no signs of concerts (except for a decaying wooden stage in the outside courtyard and a covered piano in the corner of one of the many rooms) but a series of high -ceilinged rooms on the ground floor dedicated to rotating art installations, and a second space upstairs that now houses an insect exhibit. As with many of the hidden jewels of Catania we wondered why this institute is not better publicized, or maybe it is us who are not reading enough of the local newspaper to find out what is going on in the city. In any case, a visit to the insect exhibit, which will be up until the end of November, is a great outing for children of all ages, and you won't have to pay a penny to see the shows and wander the halls of the building. If you are lucky and find a nice guard like we did, you may even get to experience walking down the long corridors lined with the nun's former cells, some of which are now office spaces, as well as view the terrace originally reached by a narrow, spiraling stair case, where the nuns hung their laundry to dry. In the outside courtyard the remains of a Norman building which once stood here is also visible, as well as a glass covered section of the floor that preserves a portion of the original tiled floors. And most startling of all is that the peace and tranquility one normally associates with a convent still fills the walls of the building, so much so that when you finish your visit and step back out into the street you will be surprised to find that you really are in the middle of Catania's bustling historic center.

Cruising Catania

2009-10-26T10:00:00.004+01:00

Ever since we noticed our first 'dancing bus' this summer driving past our house one day, my son has been in love with this particular vehicle. I am referring to the roofless tourist buses that I have seen in other Italian cities as well, that drive around the city for quick and easy access to the main sites. The term dancing bus is not exactly accurate, for on the tour bus itself you will find no music or dancing. But the one that cruised by our house this summer, presumably rented out for an event, was filled with dancing people and blasting music that left an impression on my son and lead to a world filled with 'dancing buses'.

Usually this 'Katane Live' bus line can be seen parked in front of the Porta Uzeda in Piazza Duomo, and if you are walking by, chances are you will be solicited for a ride. For 5 Euros (kids are free) you can take the 50 minute tour and get on and off the bus at 12 different stops along the route. The ticket is valid for the whole day, so for tourists visiting the city it is not a bad way to get to different points of Catania throughout a day of seeing the main places of interest in the city center.

Despite my son's attraction for the bus, I had never seriously considered taking him for a ride just for the fun of it. That is until a close friend of mine did just that with her 2 year old and reported back the success of the outing. So a few Saturdays ago, with nothing special planned for the morning, I jumped on the opportunity to treat the little guy to a ride on the dancing bus. The day was sunny and beautiful with just a slight breeze, so I wasn't too worried about being cold driving around in a convertible bus. Once in the piazza, we were also tempted by the little tourist train that is another option for getting a tour of the city center. But once my son caught a glimpse of the bus, it was all about the 'dancing bus' and we climbed on just in time for departure.

And off we went. From the start I could tell this was going to be fun and relatively relaxing for mama too. The little guy was content on sitting and kneeling on his seat, looking at all the interesting things contained in a city from up high for a change. We got a new perspective on buildings, fountains, a stretch of the lungomare, piazzas, churches, construction sites and other vehicles (garbage trucks were a fav). And although no music played, we both enjoyed listening to the recorded commentary that piped in whenever we passed an important area or building and I did learn some new tidbits of information. And for non-Italian speakers, with a pair of headphones you can plug in and listen to the information in your language of choice. I particularly enjoyed the views of the long avenues, the chance to soak in all the architectural details (plant-filled balconies, hidden terraces, glimpses of decorated facades) and getting a peek into the city's Botanical Gardens, which apparently you need to make an appointment to visit.

And exactly 50 minutes later--when we were both feeling ready to get out and stretch our legs--we pulled up, back at our starting point in the Piazza Duomo. This had been a perfect 2 year old adventure, and I couldn't have asked for better company. But as we made our way through the piazza towards our car, the little guy changed direction on me, and was heading straight towards the train ride we had passed up earlier. Thank goodness I was able to convince him to save that one for another day! But no doubt, we will be back again soon to continue our city adventures.

Some loveliness

2009-10-17T15:52:00.009+02:00

Lovely item #1

A large flat envelope from the U.S., addressed to me in the most beautiful calligraphy, arrived today. I looked at it in awe. Who could this be from? What does it contain? But as soon as I opened it, I knew exactly what it was. These are the long awaited cards from Janis, which I won long enough ago to have been completely surprised by their arrival today. This is really due to the amount of time it takes to get mail here in Sicily. For a letter sent by regular post it literally takes weeks. I knew they would eventually make it, so had put it out of my mind completely. What a wonderful surprise and how happy I am to have received these cards which show an example of the talented Janis' original artwork: a linocut of 'Meeting the Wolf of Gubbio'. I never asked Janis who the woman in the print represents, but I am assuming the wolf is the one said to have terrorized the city of Gubbio until it was tamed by St. Francis of Assisi. I love the idea of the wolf being tamed by an animal-loving woman. Could this be Janis herself? I am such a fan of Janis' work, you should really check out her blog!

Lovely item #2

My sister gave me such a special gift during her visit this summer. She purchased this gorgeous hand painted ceramic tile in Florence by Elisabetta Di Costanzo of Arte Creta and surprised me with it here in Sicily. After some deliberation, I have now found the perfect home for it: on the kitchen wall where it brings happiness to all of us every day, in the room we spend perhaps the most family time in, cooking, playing and of course, eating. I love the colors, the artist's technique and most of all the loveliness of the words at the bottom...'I want my house open to the sun and wind and the voice of the sea and light, light everywhere!!..' Thank you sis!

So you think you know pasta

2009-10-14T12:32:00.003+02:00

Lovers of pasta, Italian food and history, sounds like this book is a must have! Enjoy.

Another photo

2009-10-14T09:00:00.000+02:00

New year of blogging, new blog photo.

Quintessential Catanese coast--this shot captures the lovely Isola Lachea just in front of the fishing town, Acitrezza, and part of the mythical Ciclopi islands. The colors and lighting are typical of this time of year. Now that I have kayaked around these islands many times, I know that Lachea is not pure black lava rock, but striated with bright white bands that create the most beautiful patterns, and that seagulls are always perched on the naturally stepped surfaces. I have also read that a special species of lizard inhabits the island, but have yet to see one myself. From Acitrezza there is a fisherman that will give you a ride to the island on his boat--I saw him going back and forth all summer long, leaving sunbathers free to wander, relax and swim in in the clear, emerald green water that surrounds the little island.

happy, happy

2009-10-13T00:49:00.004+02:00

1 year of blogging!

I entered into the blogosphere timidly. It took me time to figure out what and why. Now, a year later, the what and why matter much less. I like the people I have 'met'. I like feeling that there is a community out there in different corners of Italy and the world, also sharing their experiences being moms, being expats, being travelers, being creative individuals. It is truly inspiring to be part of that community. Feedback from others is like unwrapping a gift each and every time. Who knew it was possible to feel connected with bloggers without ever having met in person?

The process of writing down experiences has been a creative exercise time and again that has reminded me how much I do enjoy writing. At times this feeling has been addictive. At other times, I can't manage to focus my thoughts for a new post. But when I do, I feel I am exercising my brain and I get a sense of accomplishment when I hit the publish post button. Important outlets for a stay at home mom who still struggles with not working regularly.

It is fun to write with purpose. To have experiences I want to describe and share. It is creative documentation. I use the information on posts as references for return trips or for planning activities with visitors. Although there is so much I do not manage to write about, I hope to keep finding the time and inspiration to share at least some of what I discover and learn and enjoy (or not) about living in Sicily in the year to come.

So, for all these reasons, happy blogging birthday to me! And thanks to all you fellow bloggers who take the time to read what I have to say and who inspired me in the first place to start a blog of my own.

Cat nap

2009-10-12T23:44:00.005+02:00

I don't know how this little cat managed to fit in this pot filled with dirt and sleep that way all afternoon (it really isn't that big)....

....and even after I woke her up with my picture taking, she just curled right back up and continued her luxurious cat nap.

Maybe I won't be planting the jade plant I had in mind for this pot after all!

October kayaking

2009-10-06T16:49:00.004+02:00

After a period of stormy weather, the sun is shining strong, the sky is cloudless, and the water has returned to its clear blue and calm self once again. With this surely short lived return to summer, we jumped on the opportunity for a morning paddle. Since May, my husband and I have become sea kayakers. All summer we diligently headed out to the water, lugging the kayak down the stairs, once or maybe twice a week if were lucky. Since we have decided we are not hardcore enough to invest in wetsuits and weather colder temperatures in a kayak, this paddle may have been one of our last of the season.

I have been meaning to write about the joys of sea kayaking all summer, but it took me awhile to figure out how to take pictures without risk of damaging a camera. These photos were taken in mid September.

When the time does come to call it quits for the season, I will be sad to store the boat away. This new hobby has really grown on me and I will miss the serenity of our paddles. As we have gotten better at paddling and navigating the water, our journeys have become more pleasant and focused. We usually head towards Acitrezza and the Cilope islands. In the other direction is Catania, more boat traffic but with some dramatic rocky cliffs and caves to admire. No matter which way you go, being on the kayak gives you a whole new appreciation of the coast. I love when we pass the fisherman in their colorful row boats. The ever changing formations of the lava rock. By the islands the water becomes emerald green and in the summer it was crowded with small boats full of people enjoying the lovely spot. Now that summer is over, it feels like we have the sea all to ourselves.

A kayaking outing would not be complete without the reward of a final swim in the sea. The sea is much cooler now, but oh so refreshing.

Living in Lundo

2009-09-30T15:24:00.003+02:00

Earlier this month we went away for our family vacation. It might seem like we go away a lot, but usually it is related to work. For example, this family vacation had two reasons for being: hubby's conference, my birthday present.

Before leaving, I wasn't really in the mood for a trip. August had been wonderful but busy, with visitors, a little traveling and not much time for myself. September had just begun and I was loving the return to some routine and a chance to get to several deadlines that had suddenly seemed to come out of nowhere. My inner self kept saying this is no time for a trip! Or maybe I was just grumpy because I knew that in a few days I would be one year older...and in another year that number will begin with a '4'.

But when we arrived to our destination.....

..... and I had this view to gaze at for a whole week--you could say I somehow forced myself to get into the trip. Okay, it wasn't so hard after all, just look at how beautiful the foothills of the Dolomites are! And I did have fun. We all did. Traveling with a toddler is never relaxing, but we filled our week in Trentino with a mixture of exploration, spending time in the village we were staying in and planning long afternoon drives to get toddler to nap (he outright refused to nap in his bed the entire stay!).

And in that week I fell in love with Trentino, which really couldn't be more opposite than Mediterranean Sicily. Mountain culture. Clean air. Grazing cows and the fresh dairy products to go with it. The apples, pears, and potatoes were in season and growing all around us, and the walnuts were dropping off the trees, giving us something to hunt for on our walks. Pristine and untouched. In our valley it was all rolling green, but further up it is dense with woods and made dramatic by the incredible jutting rock formations of the Dolomites.

Our village on a sunny day....

...and our view on a cloudy evening

The communities are so well cared for--every single village and town, no matter how small, has the most beautiful playground.

One of dozens of fabulous playgrounds

Much wood is used in the construction of the houses, and each and every one has flowers overflowing from the balconies and doorways.

One of the sweetest houses in our village

Walking paths crisscross the entire region. Romanesque churches are stark and lovely. Medieval castles abound--some are museums and can be visited, others are private or have been converted into restaurants.

View of the Dolomites from the castle in Drena

And the lakes! Emerald green water. If only it wasn't so chilly. I put my toes in Lago di Garda and was immediately numbed by the experience. The coastal villages along the lake have another feel entirely, each worthy of a visit (but all I could do was keep driving...let the little guy sleep!).

Lago di Garda

The bigger cities are elegant and alive. Our visit to Trento was all too brief, and the rain was pouring down. But we did get to the cathedral, dried off in the quaint Natural Science Museum which had the most impressive and fun kids corner, and rewarded ourselves with the best meal of the trip, and toddler's most elaborate one of his little life. He did surprisingly well, no angry looks from the patrons,...and boy did he love that white chocolate mousse.

Rovereto is home to MART, a modern art museum which has an excellent collection of paintings and sculptures by Italian artists from the mid 19th century to the present and is an important work of architecture in itself. To visit the museum's Casa Depero you will wind your way through the beautiful historic center wishing you had time for shopping, until you find yourself in the wonderful world of this designer's unique and flamboyant creative vision. I found his style to be very appealing. I wish we had spent a full day in Rovereto, but we had decided to stop here on our last day on the way to the airport in Verona and cut it so close as it was...don't even ask how fast we were driving as we sped off to catch our plane!

And that is the story of our trip. And it hasn't even dawned on me that I am one year older.

Rainbow

2009-09-29T14:53:00.004+02:00

A trip, a sickness, a deadline,...and a rainbow! This is the month of unusual horizons. Hopefully next month will bring more time for blogging!

This rainbow caught us off guard. The colors were so bright and seemed so near, it was incredible. Now my son looks not only for tornados (okay, water spouts!) but also rainbows everyday. I doubt we will see either again anytime soon, and surely not back to back.

unusual sighting

2009-09-12T06:59:00.010+02:00

Big storm clouds hovering over the sea. How hard is it raining out there? But wait, what is that thin vertical spiral I see slowly moving across the horizon, hanging down from the clouds? Could this be my first tornado sighting? (Just click on the image and tell me its not!)

La Fiera

2009-09-11T08:56:00.001+02:00

Was driven into Catania yesterday on two wheels headed straight for the city's largest daily market, la fiera (if you can find your way to Piazza Stesicoro you will find la fiera). We bypassed the usual mishmash of clothes, toys, things for the house, etc. and honed in on vendors selling CD's.

In a just a few minutes I had spotted what we were looking for but didn't even know existed before that moment--the complete collection of the winning songs from the Zecchino D'Oro children's music contest that has been taking place in Italy every year since 1959. I haven't had a chance to listen to all the songs yet, but these CD's should keep our son happy (probably driving the adults crazy!) on the longish drives we anticipate in our upcoming trip (more on that later). For anyone interested in a sampling, the official Zecchino D'Oro website has more information and links. I can't say I love these songs, but this is the quintessential Italian children's music and at least a few of the ones I have (involuntarily) gotten to know are catchy enough to have grown on me, too (44 gatti, for example).

With the CD purchase behind us, we made our way over to the market's lively food section. Here you can't beat the prices and freshness of the produce, and it is always exciting to be in the middle of the crowds moving from one noisy vendor to the next. We purchased our beans and cucumbers but then couldn't pass up the sott'olio stand--all things marinated, piles of glistening olives. These are among the best Sicilian olives I have ever tasted and a few varieties came home with us.

Even though la fiera could warrant several hours of wandering in search of the best bargains, our time was limited and we were soon back on the bike heading home. Driving down the long avenues I love...

From the back seat I never pay attention to where we are but choose to relax and soak in the sites and smells of the city, and sometimes even attempt to take pictures.

And when we eventually make it out of the city center, catching that first glimpse of the black rocky coast, I know we will soon be home!

when in Rome...

2009-09-06T21:23:00.007+02:00

Fontana delle Tartarughe

It already feels like our trip to Rome was a lifetime ago. But I still remember all the details and continue to glow in the aftermath (pushing away the melancholic nostalgia) of a meaningful and fun-filled visit with my sister and her family.

First: Our four days in Rome were H*O*T. Yes we arrived smack in the middle of the heat wave, land locked with no chance of jumping in the water to stay cool. But we got up early, smeared on our sun block, put on our hats, pocketed our water bottles, and managed to spend our mornings and evenings engaged in adventurous activities meeting up with my sister and company as much as possible. We ran for shelter from the sun during the mid afternoon stretch, following the eating/napping rhythm of our toddler and also benefiting ourselves from the excuse to sit in a cool environment --air conditioning never felt so good! Heat + Toddler = good time management.

Second: August in Rome means that half the city is shut down. On the down side that meant most of our favorite restaurants were closed. On the plus, no traffic, wide open avenues, a feeling of calm serenity in a normally vehicle-chaotic city. And the tourist-heavy centro storico was for the most part open.

Third: Activity-filled mornings and evenings. We picked a few kid-friendly activities that couldn’t be missed: the zoo and the children’s museum. We attempted to take the toddler on a couple of visits to archaeological sites: the Colosseum (note: the ticket is also good for the Palatine and Roman Forum, we waited on line for circa 30 minutes!) and Trajan's market; no surprise, he was mostly interested in trying to keep up with his older cousins, and fortunately they enjoyed giving him the satisfaction for the most part! We wandered through favorite neighborhoods, stopping for refreshments, lingering in vehicle-free piazzas so the kids could run wild. We ate dinners out as a family every night, breaking records for late nights out (with a toddler, that is!).

Four: and the winner is…! From my slanted point of view I would have to say that our son wins the prize for most fun had. He has become such the little traveler and enjoys the concept of ‘going on an adventure’, from the plane ride, to the chance of being in a big city, out and about, on the move. And all of this toddler joyfulness was amplified by the presence of his big cousins.

Five: Top toddler highlights. Other than playing with the cousins and visiting the zoo and children’s museum, I would have to say the unexpected toddler highlights of the trip were riding on buses and discovering sources of water—in Roma that would be its many flowing fountains--often to the chagrin of Mamma. I had to pull the little guy off the sculpted rocks of the Trevi Fountain for fear he would topple in the water head first! I had to disinfect his hands after he flashed that ‘I know I shouldn’t be doing this smile’ and fished around in Bernini’s four river fountain in Piazza Navona anyway. The Turtle fountain in the Ghetto neighborhood of Rome was more manageable than most, possibly due to a low railing the surrounds it. But the newly constructed fountain in front of the Richard Meier designed Ara Pacis museum gave me the most fright—as his attempt to jump in from a low wall was stopped mid-air!

The most entertaining and least potentially dangerous were the drinking fountains. For anyone who has never been to Rome, Roman drinking fountains consist of a continuous flow of water running freely from a faucet directly connected to a freestanding water pipe. To properly drink from the fountains you have to block the flow completely with your hand, causing a fine stream of water to shoot out of a little hole on the top of the faucet (click here for a photo). Hubby was thrilled to have the opportunity to teach this technique to toddler. You can imagine that meant a lot of stopping, sort of drinking, but mostly getting wet. With the heat, it wasn’t such a bad thing. On one late afternoon stroll the little guy spotted a drinking fountain, got the big cousins involved in the water play, and before we knew it they (and especially he) were sopping wet! I considered taking off all his clothes to dry but reconsidered and let the heat slowly do its job.

Six: what I would have done if there were more time.

-Castel Sant’Angleo seemed like a great monument for a toddler to visit. Love crossing that bridge!

-A boat tour of the Tevere river. Could have been fun, but given the fearlessness of our two year old, he might of wound up overboard! We didn’t want to take the risk. Maybe next time!

-Trastevere neighborhood stroll. The vehicle free zones of Trastevere would have been pleasant, and I love the large fountain/piazza in front of the Santa Maria in Trastevere basilica, not to mention the church itself.

-A visit to the small mosaic decorated chapel of Santa Prassede in Esquilino. This is among my favorite jewels of Rome, and I think the small scale of the room and bright colors of the mosaic would be accessible even to a little guy.

-Basilica San Clemente: Another favorite jewel. This church also has wonderful mosaics decorating the apse, but more interesting is a whole network of underground levels to explore including underground water sources. I know the little guy would have loved it.

-The biblioteca centrale ragazzi: This children public library branch seems like an amazing place, with books in many languages and a section dedicated to little kids. Unfortunately it is closed the whole month of August.

The wrong way to drink from Roman drinking fountains!

Travel plans

2009-08-19T04:41:00.007+02:00

When we were getting ready to move back to Italy in the spring of 2008, my sister announced: August 2009 we will come visit you in Italy. The 'we' being herself, husband and two adorable children, the later three of whom had never been to Europe before.

Being a last minute planner myself, the pronouncement barely registered at the time. Who can get excited for supposed visitors a year plus prior to the actual visit?

But eventually spring 2009 did arrive and suddenly my big sis was sending me possible dates for a visit. And soon thereafter a copy of a flight itinerary. So I guess they're really coming. Was that a twinge of excitement I felt in my bones?

And then I found myself doing research for my sister on accommodations in Rome and Florence. And soon big sis dared to ask: Would we be able to meet them in Rome? And of course my response was: too far away to plan, who knows how the toddler will be doing or if we will be up for traveling then. Let's wait and see.

And suddenly it is July, and we are still wavering. Where will we stay, will it be too hot, will the little one have fun. But as I waver and as their departure time nears, I know I cannot bear to have my sister and her family in Italy a whole 10 days before I get to see them in Sicily. The rest will follow and it won't matter how hot it is, where we stay, or even what we do. What is important is that first big hug in the airport. Seeing my little boy with his American cousins again. Sharing some of my favorite things about Rome with them. This is an opportunity that cannot be passed up.

Hubby senses my excitement and decides to join us. Two weeks ago we booked our tickets.

Yes, dear sis, we will be meeting you in Rome!

------------------

Have a good week and I'll let you know if it was worth it when we get back (but of course it will be!).

Shade

2009-08-15T21:27:00.001+02:00

Emily's post about visiting this beautiful garden in Catalgirone and Megan's post about enjoying time on her gorgeous terrazzo made me think about my own little piece of paradise right here in our backyard. How lucky we are to be surrounded by this wonderful yard full of luscious greenery that in the spring and summer is bursting with life. It is here when the afternoon shade takes over that we spend our best hours lounging, playing, exploring and, most importantly, staying cool.

The pleasantness of our yard has shaped our summer afternoons. Toddler wakes up from his nap, after a cuddle or two on the couch and little bit of TV, we wander outside barefoot, play with Bianca the kitten, inspect our vegetable garden for any ripe pickings, and delight in the coolness of the grass on our feet and any sea breeze that might reach our cheeks. Soon hubby joins us and if the soil is dry, out comes the hose for an afternoon watering. The tomatoes, eggplants, zucchinis and peppers get thirsty in the hot summer sun. As do our newly planted fruit trees--lemon, tangerine, lowquat, avocado.

I love this ritual and the balance that spending time with the earth backyard play creates in our summer routine. So in thinking about the special place greenery and shade have in our long hot summer days, I realize that Sicilian summers are not only about water after all. But when the hose does come out for a watering, you can bet that pretty soon after toddler's clothes will be off and there will be a naked wet little boy tearing through the yard, often with a wet kitten darting after him. I guess that brings me back to my last post: a little water thrown into the mix never hurts!

Water

2009-08-13T09:37:00.004+02:00

August in Sicily is all about finding ways to stay cool. And with a toddler in tow, that means anything having to do with water. Swimming pools, rocky beach, sandy beach, inflatable wading pools, sprinklers, water toys, baths, showers. You name it, we've been doing it.

Despite feeling a little waterlogged, this form of play has its benefits. For example, I have been discovering many new places--pools at friend's houses, new lidos (beach clubs) on both sandy and rocky beaches that include great swimming pools, organized activities for kids, and playgrounds. The latest is the Lido dei Ciclopi at Acitrezza. A different way to experience our black rocky coast than what I find on the patch of rock in front of our house--carefully constructed wooden platforms that contain private cabinas, large swimming pool (pictured in photo), fish pond and an oasis of palm trees, not to mention bar, restaurant, lounge chairs and umbrellas, and easy direct access to the sea.

Something that I had forgotten from my own childhood memories about spending lots of time with water in the summer is that water play is fun and exhausting at the same time. Time flies. Boredom doesn't exist. And the little guy is sleeping more hours than ever before. We're talking 12 hours at night and 2 to 3 hours in the day. According to Italian tradition, the iodine in salty water is good for the respiratory system but also very exciting for children's metabolisms, causing them to expend a great deal of energy in seaside play. For my fellow mamma friends and I this seems to be true based on the number of hours our kids are sleeping this summer. But I think the heat also has something to do with it. And the fact that 2 year olds don't walk anymore, they run.

And then there is the pure enjoyment of time spent with friends and family outdoors, surrounded by the beauty and wonders of the big blue sea--just look at that color! Don't you want to jump in for a swim?

pesto and pancakes

2009-08-05T15:09:00.000+02:00

After seeing Karen from South of Rome's post about growing basil, I felt inspired to share with you the results of our first pesto using not only home grown basil, but also home scavenged pine nuts. The whole family partook in this one. Smashing open the pine nut shells might have been my toddler's favorite part, although he also had fun trying on the gloves I wore to protect my hands from becoming a sticky mess from the pine resin that oozes out of our pine cones. And once he got bored with that, he discovered the pile of freshly opened pine nuts and started eating them about as fast as we could open them! Thank goodness that only about 1/2 cup are necessary.

I didn't use one recipe, but glanced at both Italian and English language versions on the internet. Then the Italian husband who is very-good-in-the-kitchen took over with the quantities and blending, saying it was more about a little of this a little of that, until you got the proportions right according to your taste buds, than following a recipe. I didn't argue, but somehow ended up the official taster. And after a few tastes, not only did we find our perfect blend of fresh basil, pine nuts, garlic, olive oil, parmigiano and pecorino romano, but we also found the perfect way to eat it: on top of Ligurian testaroli (pancakes), a simple mix of two types of flour and water cooked on the grill just like any old pancake. So simple, so fun to eat. You have to try this!

Whizzing through Messina

2009-08-03T15:30:00.005+02:00

There is a small but interesting regional museum in Messina that I have known about for quite awhile (it is the home of two Caravaggio paintings!), but only recently visited for the first time. We decided to make an afternoon of it, and speeding along the autostrada were able to arrive in Messina's centro storico in an hour and a half flat. After passing Taormina, the pebbly coastline was pretty built up with new houses and nothing else, but inland to the west the craggy hills were occasionally dotted with an alluring medieval hill town just visible in the distance. But most interesting to me was the ever-changing view of the Italian mainland which loomed larger the closer we got to our destination, until we could actually see the outlines of buildings on the coast of Reggio Calabria directly across from Messina's busy port.

The seemingly short, 90km distance we had driven had transported us to a whole new reality. First, this is a relatively small town, so as compared to Catania, everything here feels manageable and functional. Like the city's infrastructure--it seems to work! There is next to no litter on the streets, the avenues are lined with trees, it was rare to see a derelict building, and no matter how small, its well-cared for museum is open to the public for a bargain 2.50 Euro (Catania's regional museum has been virtually closed for years).

Messina's museum is 4km outside of the center and wouldn't be open until 4pm. That gave us an hour or so to wander in the historic center. Our timing for visiting the town wasn't that great, because 15.00 is the magic hour in which everything (except for the duomo itself as far as I could tell) shuts down for the afternoon break.

But I still got a wonderful impression of Messina's historic center. Although tragically 90% of the city was destroyed by a 1908 earthquake, which means most of what you see is under 100 years old, I loved the feel of the wide, tree-lined avenues framing three story Art Noveau buildings that radiated out from the Piazza Duomo--a real contrast to treeless, taller Catania. And as we noticed while driving in and out of the city, Messina is hilly, with a pretty natural landscape and much greenery integrated into the town which was a real surprise. This, combined with the city's main feature, its port, gave my better half the impression of a little Naples.

In the Piazza Duomo you will see three of the city's most important monuments (all three in the photo below): its main cathedral, completely restored but still retaining original medieval elements like the portal; the adjacent campanile, built in the 1930s to house the world's largest astronomical clock; and the Renaissance period Orion fountain (Orion being the mythological founder of the city) sculpted by Friar Montorsoli, a student of Michelangelo. While these are the city's most noted monuments, one glance at a guidebook and you will see that the centro storico warrents more than just an hour visit.

But our time was limited and our main goal was to see the regional museum. So off we went, and with relative ease found ourselves in front of a modern cement mammoth--nothing like the former 19th century silk weaving factory I had read about and expected--thanks to the striking architectural fragments that form a sort of outdoor sculpture garden in front of the museum. The older building (pictured at the top of the page) is quite small and visible only once inside the gate.

We were not alone! A little crowd of tourists had gathered out front of the museum waiting for it to open. And our visit began. With a little reading, we discovered that the museum was built just after the 1908 earthquake in order to house the many works whose original homes had been destroyed. Most moving was a fragment of a painted wooden beam rescued from the cathedral, as we had just seen the restored version on our visit inside the Duomo. But of course I was intent on seeing the two Caravaggio masterpieces--Nativity and Raising Lazarus, whereas hubby zoomed in on the Antonello da Messina works. But in addition to those, we were able to read about and view everything to our hearts content and in about thirty minutes had seen all that we could. Like I said, this museum is pleasingly small.

It was time to go home, but never empty handed! We picked up our edible souvenir at the only shop we had found open on our quick stroll in the centro storico. This funky, old-fashioned pasticerria carried not only homemade granita (not as tasty as what we find at home, but definitely refreshing) and bottles of locally brewed Messina beer, but also messinese delicacies like the pignolata, a kind of vanilla cake with lemon and chocolate frosting, just the thing for hubby's sweet tooth and, as we were to later discover, whole-heartedly enjoyed by the toddler.

brioche + gelsi = summer

2009-07-29T10:34:00.008+02:00

The vote is out, and we have unanimously declared La Posada the winner of the best brioche (not too sweet, but perfectly soft on the inside and browned on the outside) and the best gelsi (mulberry) granita.

Even though only myself and my husband are in on the vote, the fact that we actually agree on this one says a lot. On most subjects we usually have lengthy discussions that can often end in disagreements about all sorts of things, including the preferences of our taste buds. So, the fact that we AGREE on this one should mean a lot to all you granita lovers out there!

La Posada is not a fancy bar, but it is located on the water front in the scogliera zone of Catania. And from the seating area behind the bar you will have a view of the big blue sea as you enjoy your refreshing granita. Along with gelsi, peach and fig can be very tasty, when they are available (often they are not), but skip the non-fruit flavors as they get the thumbs down according to our (not-so-expert) taste buds.

The mulberry is an interesting fruit and not widely eaten in the US as far as I know. At least I had never tried one until I visited Sicily. They grow on beautiful trees, can make a mess of the pavement if the ripe fruit is not picked right away, are similar in appearance to blackberries but are mushier in texture, come in two varieties--white or dark red--but it is the red ones that are sweeter and are used for making granite, and are also wonderful to eat raw, fresh off the tree.

They ripen in June, are picked and sold fresh by street vendors, and are probably frozen to be used throughout the summer to make granita.

In a nut shell, the gelsi granita has become our ultimate summer treat to be enjoyed whenever we can find the time or think of a reason to make a quick getaway to the bar.

ENJOY!

Catania's sandy beach: the Playa

2009-07-24T10:37:00.006+02:00

Most people I know complain about the Playa, Catania's so-called riviera beach zone: the water is ugly, it is too far away, there is too much traffic, the beach is crowded, the sand is annoying. And while such statements could be considered true, they usually come out of the mouths of those who are partial to the rocky beaches of the scoglieria coastal area, with its black boulders, turquoise waters and abundant sea life that feel quintessentially Mediterranean island rather than man-made beach resort. But, as I have discovered on numerous visits to the sandy shore, the Playa (also spelled Plaia) has its own culture and its own place in Catanese summer and therefore must be addressed on its own terms.

First a little background. This stretch of golden sandy beach begins just after Catania's (unsightly) port and extends 18 km in the direction of Siracusa, ending at the Agnone Bagni area. But the core lido zone is the area just beyond the port and here you will find a densely packed beach front with a total of 3 public beaches (not so recommended as they are usually crammed full of people on top of people on top of litter) and 29 lido beach clubs that vary in size and offerings, but that with a montly fee provide a cabina (small wooden cabin that serves as a changing/storage room), the use of the maintained and lifeguard protected waters, and facilities like bar, playground, swimming pool, restrooms, showers and more.

It is in the beach clubs that you will find families hanging out in the patch of sand in front of their cabina enjoying copious amounts of home cooked food, adults seated around fold up tables playing cards, groups of teens huddled together in their speedos and bikinis with their uniformly tanned skin, and of course the children, lots and lots of children of all ages, enjoying the freedom of open sand, warm water and small waves.

The first thing that strikes you about the Playa is the breeze. There is always a steady cooling breeze that at times can be a strong wind that flings sand in your face and makes you run for cover (in fact a part of the bay is zoned for wind surfing). Then there is the unique view. Immediately to the west are the cranes and large ships of Catania's port, perhaps not so ideal for a beach setting, but also not so uncommon for big city beaches (Los Angeles' Long Beach comes to mind). But in sharp contrast to industrial Catania is the best view of Mt. Etna you can have from the city, completely unobscured from its foothills to its peak, a truly awesome sight. I should also mention that Catania's airport, Fontanarossa, is just behind the Playa, meaning that a constant flow of airplanes is also part of the scenery (this is a plus for my son and his little friends who universally seem to get a kick out of airplane sightings).

I prefer to arrive at the Playa in the late afternoon/early evening, the time of day when most people are heading home. This helps make the schlep less stressful, as Catania's traffic is manageable in the 4 to 5 o'clock range, at this time of day the sun doesn't burn quite so much, and, best of all, in the late afternoon there is always a sense of peaceful calm on the beach that never fails to transport me to a world where I forget myself and nothing matters but the loveliness of the day.

And here we play in the waves and on the sand, engrossed in beach play as the time speeds by and before we know it the light is changing, the beaches are empty, the umbrellas are closed, the red flags are up, stomachs are grumbling. A stop at the playground en route to the token-operated warm shower to rinse off the sand, a change of clothes and our afternoon at the beach is over.

P.S. These photos were taken on our first visit to Lido Excelsior, which I would definitely recommend for its smallish, family-oriented feel and cute sandy playground. Lido Azzurro is also a good choice for a larger more elaborate facility.

At a loss for words....

2009-07-20T10:02:00.004+02:00

I always feel a little strange and surprised to see myself through the eyes of others. It's like the sensation of hearing your own voice on a recording, seeing a glimpse of yourself on film: yes, that's me, but it is somehow a different me than the one I expected.

When I read the kind description of myself and my blog on fellow expat blogger Laura's Ciao Amalfi!'s Sunday Shout-out, I couldn't believe she was talking about me! What a thrill to have connected with such a talented individual and to be featured on her blog this week.

Thank you again Laura, and I look forward to following your good reads on Ciao Amalfi!

Meet Bianca

2009-07-19T15:13:00.009+02:00

You'd think she had been living with us forever based on this photo of a comfortably napping kitten in her favorite dappled sunlight afternoon spot.

But it was this scrawny but adorable critter who decided we were to adopt her a mere two days ago when she showed up on our doorstep after playing peek-a-boo with our son the day before. We think it was love at first site.

The toddler is overjoyed with his new playmate (and scratch free, this is a tolerant kitty), and I feel as if a weight has been lifted off my shoulders after years and years of repressing my cat-loving nature. I can finally forget about all those what-ifs that have made having a cat impossible. Now we have a yard, we will be able to teach the kitten to remain outside and hopefully retain her ability to get along with the stray cats that prowl our neighborhood, also making it possible to have her fed by a neighbor if we go away for extended trips. And, as for the big what-if, what if we end up moving one day? Well, in that case, she just may have to come with us.

The other piazza

2009-07-18T16:20:00.002+02:00

In past posts about where I live, I always focus on Piazza Castello, the beautiful piazza perched on top of a rocky outcrop overhanging the sea and with its very own Norman castle looming above. It is here that most of the local kids come to play and the tourists stroll through for site seeing at the castle, to take in the wonderful coastal panoramas and maybe indulge in a granita at one of the bars.

But there is also a second, less glamorous piazza, located a few blocks inland (don't actually think this piazza has a name, but it is located on the corner of Via Francesco Crispi and Via Dante). In the winter months the local kids congregate here for soccer matches. But in summer it is taken over by the outdoor seating of two adjacent pizzerias. Our current pizzeria of choice happens to be located right here and instead of going for the portare via, pizza in a box option as usual, last night we decided to combine play time in this cozy piazza with dinner time at Pizzeria Jonica.

As local legend has it, Pizzeria Jonica was originally located around the corner from its current spot and has only inhabited the piazza-facing building for the past 10 years or so. In fact, its not so savory nickmane 'i cessi' is due to the fact that its original location was virtually next door to the now defunct public restrooms! And, yes, locals are still referring to Pizzeria Jonica as 'i cessi' even though the public toilets are nowhere in site.

But have no fear, the unappetizing nickname bears no influence on the current appeal of the place nor the quality of the pizza. We thought our 8 o'clock arrival time might be a bit early for Aci Castellans to open shop, but we were pleasantly surprised to find another couple already seated and enjoying a pizza. We quickly joined in and ordered--two normal sized pizzas for around 6 euros a piece, and a mere 3 euros for the so-called 'mini-pizza' (not so mini we were to soon find out!) for the bambino.

The waiting time passed quickly for us all. From our chosen spot near the table-free end of the piazza, toddler was able to admire several groups of older kids in their big kid play and have fun kicking around his own big yellow ball with little disturbance to the fellow patrons who were steadily increasing in number.

The pizzas arrived, toddler sat and ate while people watching, his parents sipped beers and enjoyed their meals. Some more play time as we wrapped things up, got the bill and prepared for our short stroll home. While this may all seem pretty banal to most of you, for us the whole evening was a sort of epiphany, i.e., our son is old enough to be taken out to certain kinds of restaurants and actually enjoy the experience?!?!? WOW. This may be a new beginning.

The feeling of contentment and renewed appreciation for the simple act of an evening out followed us on our walk home and lingered throughout the evening. It was unanimous, our town is relaxing, beautiful, easy, kid-friendly and can be most appreciated on a summer evening out doing nothing more than eating a pizza.

Scavenging

2009-07-15T11:50:00.003+02:00

It was the loud thud that got me thinking about pine cones. We were outside playing and scattered on the ground were at least 5 large pine cones that had just recently careened down onto the pavement from up there in the unreachable branches.

At least one had come crashing down very close to where we had been standing and it gave us a fright! I would hate to think what would happen if one actually landed on our heads!#@$%^&!

While numerous things are ripening in our garden, the pine cones, or those little jewels that can be found inside of them, also seem to be ready for consumption. Why else would they be dropping from the branches?

And as we neared the site of the recently fallen pine cone, there scattered around it were dozens of the now familar dusty brown shell of the pine nut (confession: I did not know that pine nuts came from pine cones until well into adulthood!). No longer did they seem like dangerous moving objects to be avoided at all cost, but free gifts laden with lovely hidden treats.

That is if I was persistent enough to meet the challenge...

While the hard shells that had been freed from the claws of the protective cones by their impact with the pavement were not so difficult to deal with--a few whacks of the hammer, and voila, out popped a perfect pine nut, with only a few smudges of brown pine nut dust on the hands to contend with and a curious toddler who appreciated the taste of the freshly opened nut as much as I did; but it was the process of removing those stubborn nuts still lodged in the pine cone post-impact that made me break out in a sweat.

With considerable prying, banging, huffing and puffing (to the puzzlement of my toddler) I managed to free all remaining pine nuts from my first specimen. But it was only after repeated handling of the thing that I realized I was now covered in sticky pine resin that oozed out of the pine cone and had turned mostly me, and partially toddler, into a sticky mess.

No big deal, really, only that this resin is REALLY sticky and glue-like! I grew up in a house with large pine trees and am sure I handled plenty of pine cones as a kid, but never do I remember encountering such resin! It is opaque white on the cone, colorless on the hand, very fragrant in a good way, but impossible to get off the skin and immediately transferable to anything that one's sticky fingers comes in contact with.

So after one mere pine cone our scavenging adventure had come to an abrupt end. And between those eaten and my quickly defeated spirit, I doubt there are enough de-shelled pine nuts for that homemade pesto I had in mind...

But I did come away from the experience with the following important lessons learned from grappling with a pine cone:

1) Wear gloves when attempting to collect pine nuts.

2) When flustered due to pesty pine cones, take a break and try again the next day, taking into account the lessons learned from the previous day, it will be much more fun! (no I didn't give up and was at it again the next day, this time during toddler's nap time to prevent unwanted consumption of the precious goods, and unwanted stickiness to deal with later).

3) I finally understand why store bought pine nuts are so pricey.

4) No doubt that it is easier to go out and buy your own pesto, but I am hoping that the taste of the final product will make all the scavenging worth it.

P.S. Is collecting pine nuts something that people with pine trees on their property do on a regular basis, or is this just plain crazy?

Bloggers strike in Italy

2009-07-14T15:38:00.003+02:00

A nice welcome home!

2009-07-10T10:05:00.008+02:00

I received a surprise 'welcome home' blog award from Laura of Ciao Amalfi! Thank you so much for including me among your list of 'brilliant blogs to follow'! What an honor and and a great way to discover new and interesting blogs out there.

While I am thrilled to be passed on an award, gulp, not so sure how I feel about the stipulations of the award, i.e., 'sharing ten honest things about myself'! I tend to keep my blog on the descriptive and not too private side, but hey, this could be fun?!?!? So here it goes...

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10 Honest Things About Myself

1) I haven't lived at the same address for more than 2 consecutive years since graduating from college. We're talking 15+ years! Let's see if Sicily (and a child) can keep us more grounded.

2) Even though I have been living in Italy on and off for 8 years and have Italian citizenship, I still feel like a foreigner and wonder if that feeling will ever go away.

3) I am not a phone person, so much so that I struggle to keep in touch with friends and family via the telephone and force myself to pick up the phone to make the call. That said, once on the phone, I am always happy to have connected with loved ones far away and am even happier to be on the receiving end of the call as if being given a special gift from someone who doesn't mind picking up the phone first.

4) Even though I am attracted to skirts and dresses and own many of them, I am more of a pants/shorts/jeans kind of gal and find myself grabbing those out of the closet over and over again.

5) I think I have the best job and miss working in the big city every day.

6) I feel incredibly lucky to have the opportunity to live next to the Ionian Sea and try to enjoy and take advantage of all the benefits of seaside living every day. But I can't seem to get the California girl out of me and on many levels still prefer the sound of waves crashing on a beach and all that is associated with a Pacific Ocean beach over the Mediterranean.

7) I greatly dislike getting my haircut and in my lifetime have left many hair salons teary-eyed. I admire people who change their looks regularly and without fear.

8) I love being driven on two-wheeled vehicles and can't believe that I know how to drive a vespa.

9) Being a mom is the most joyful and challenging adventure I have yet to undertake.

10) Spending time outdoors on a sunny day brings me happiness, whether it be hiking on a mountain trail, hanging out in our vegetable garden, or jumping off the rocks into sea.

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And now for the easy part of the award, sharing with you some brilliant blogs to follow:

Dim Sum, Bagels and Crawfish

Lovely Design